What's better for a larger yield? Topping or Fimming?

@kmac03 oh yea, me and Einstein had a stare down once :laughing: i won :v: after that one i’m going to bed

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No kidding, fantastic visual, I always wondered and was actually “Topping” all along! Huh, so what does “FIMming” do then? (I know the topping makes more grow/cola sites, right? or am I wrong there too?)

I have been practicing the Kyle Kushman Chiropractic Pruning on some of my plants (SOG setting) and that has always worked really well with my Indica Leaning strains. :seedling: :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

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@kanashiihawk fimming grows more tops too it just doesn’t stunt vertical growth. It’s also a little harder than topping to get it just right but if you do get it right one fim can give you 4 tops.

I like using both topping and fimming on photos. Topping to control vertical growth and fimming to make it bush out more.

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Here is a good example of fimming. In fact I just fimmed some of her tops today will be the last time for her

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Look at those emerald beauties! :heart_eyes:

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Wow, thanks for the visuals and more details. Also, when photo plants start flowering you should NOT “Top” or “Fim” or mess with them anymore other than maybe some LST or pruning of fan leaves that kind of thing?

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Once they start flowering I only prune leaves I don’t top or fim but they’re a week and a half out from 12:12 still here’s it’s identical sister that I only fimmed and tied down no topping. Born the same day October 25th

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@dmtscravey woooweeee man look at that canopy! That’s damn near perfect and she filled out nice. She’s ready to flower in my humble opinion. :heart_eyes:

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@dmtscravey the fim and LST only one is going to give you some nice big conical nugs. The topped fimmed and lst one won’t stretch as much in flower but that canopy will just be a sea of top buds man. Absolutely beautiful job.

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@kanashiihawk yes. As soon as flowering starts you don’t want to top or fim. Just LST adjustments if necessary and selective defoliation just to keep good airflow around the buds but leave enough fan leaves to soak up the light and give the buds energy to grow.

After about week 2 or 3 of flower I would not make any more LST adjustments at all and make my final trim under the canopy at week 2.

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@Mdbuds When do I start using molasses and could you give me the recommended brand again that you prefer?

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@dmtscravey there are two brands I use. There’s the earth juice hi-brix mfp which is one of my favorites. Works with hyrdo and soil. As far as the black strap I usually just get the golden barrel organic unsulfured black strap. It’s cheaper than the mfp and you can buy it in bulk. It works pretty good. Just make sure you get the one that is actually certified organic.

As far as when to use I start using it in veg before going to flower. It feeds the mychorrizae and bacteria in the soil as well so it helps keep the microbiome alive and healthy. I use it every feeding 1/4 tsp up to 1tsp per gallon depending on deficiencies because black strap/mfp also works as a cal/mag so I also use it to supplement that.

For White Widow since it gets big calyxes and semi fluffy buds just coated in resin I’d just go 1 tsp per gallon through the whole grow. It takes a lot of sugars to keep those buds swollen and frosty.

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@dmtscravey also remember when you flip to flower keep using some of your grow nutes with your flower at 1/4 strength and each feeding cut back the grow nutes and increase the flower nutes slowly. At week 3 of flower cut out the grow nutes and just use the flower nutes with molasses at 1/2 strength and slowly increase as the bud mass starts to develop. White widow does get hungry but needs little PK at first until it starts packing on weight then you can start using full strength.

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@Adcrag that GDP is looking great and you’re doing a good job with that scrog. She looks just about ready to flower since she’s almost filling up the whole tent. She’s going to yield you a lot more than that WW auto did that’s for sure.

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Got it I will try to follow this as closely as I can thank you again for your knowledge @MDBuds

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When would be the best time to FIM or Top an auto?

At about 3 weeks of age / 3-4 nodes. Auto - This is my preference - Top first, then fim later after you Topped successfully and it gave you 2 tops, LST it a little and fim the tops. That could theoretically give 8 tops (4 and 4)

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:+1:t4::+1:t4: @MDBuds. Can hardly wait to see how she matures. I’ve pruned at every watering. Lots of sucker leaves. Feel bad when I clip her lol.

I got my WW in jar th 56%, I added 58% boniva pack. Burping several times a day. I leave jar open 15 minutes, is this okay. Slight hay smell, but bud aroma increasing.

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Hope growing in your world is blooming!!

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Do not DRY in the jars, that is for curing. You hang, 55-60 degrees (colder is OK), rh 45-55, slight breeze (indirect), dark, check daily for MOLD!. After it is dry (branches SNAP - if only some, jar the ones that do), then jar it, dark place, burp daily and you can move them around (shake lightly). This CURE process can go for 6 mos to a year if desired. You can also smoke after about 1 week. Longer, slower the dry and cure, better the stash come out

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@Adcrag if rh is under 58% with your boveda packs it’s safe to seal it up. It takes roughly two to three weeks for the chlorophyll to break down which causes that grassy hay smell but as soon as it finishes you’ll be back to that skunky pine smell.

I’d just check it if the RH spikes above 58% with your boveda in there and every few days just to turn them and smell them. Make sure there’s no ammonia smell. As soon as the hay/grass smell is gone though just leave it sealed and only open it when you want to consume it. Oxygen is good at first to prevent mold and anaerobic bacteria but once it’s set and cured it preserves longer the less you open it.

My plants are doing well though. Taking their sweet time getting amber but they’re close. I’ll be drying and curing here soon. Happy growing. :v::call_me_hand::metal:

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