Grow journal #1

She has been that size for 2 or 3 days, and no water, she has the humidity dome bc she is in ffof

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That could be your issue if using red spec from seed. Blue light spectrum helps with root development and vegetative growth. Those red spec lights are great for flower and to get your plants to stretch but they donā€™t root as well or bush out as much without the blue. Itā€™s why most growers using blue spec and red spec lights use blue for veg and red for bloom and flower.

Itā€™s also why I just went with a full spectrum because I only have one tent for both veg and flower. Makes it much easier than trying to switch over a light.

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Yea I got the smaller blue spec light and tent bc of that reason, but everything wont fit in there lol

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FFOF has a lot of forest material in it. Maybe the roots snagged up on a big piece of mulch or a stick. Iā€™ve had that happen in my FFOF and my Kellogg. Thatā€™s why I always clear out a hole in the center of my pot about the size of a 12 oz cup then I pick all the big pieces of wood material out of the mix and fill the hole back up with the finer mix so the tap root can shoot straight down no problem then I put the pieces I took out back on top as mulch.

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But! I cant put all the plants with the blue light, but I can put the blue light in there with the red light!

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Thatā€™s a fantastic idea that I wld not have thought off

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Blue light with the red light would help. Youā€™d technically be full spectrum then. Iā€™d just keep the vegging plants centered under the blue spec and the flowering centered under the red spec myself but that would definitely help your roots in veg in the big tent with the red.

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Great advice @MDBuds. Iā€™m in the same boat with 1 grow area. I usually use t5 or even regular bulbs as supplement during early veg, and then slowly phase them out during the first few weeks of flower.

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Two Day GGā€™s #4 Fem . theyā€™re running past that old columbian seed (bigger leaves columbo seed 11 days) better set another couple of buckets :v:

!

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So, this is the first time Iā€™ve used the ffof, and subsequently ive had these girls under domes there entire lives, so, I wanna say in my past search for knowledge I read that when u keep them under the humidity dome that long u cant just remove it, that u have to take them off for a little at first to acclimate them to there new environmentā€¦am I correct?

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@Eggs yes. You need to acclimate them. Extreme changes in environment can stress the poor girls. Domes not only keep humidity up, but they also decrease the light intensity slightly. So when you start taking the domes off I would only do it for a few hours at a time then after a few days go ahead and take them off and monitor to make sure they are adjusting properly.

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Yup, thatā€™s pretty much the same info I remember reading, thanks a bunch brother!

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Youā€™re welcome man. :v::call_me_hand::metal:

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Ah this ffof is burning my plants even in the humidity dome I hope they can make it thru lol

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And that one is stuck at the same size

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@MDBuds @DollarBill hey so since this soil is burning my plant, cld I possibly pull these little round leaves off since they provide so much energy? I cant do anything about the soil, but I can certainly pull those little round leaves off if it will help even things outā€¦Iā€™d normally go ahead n just try something like that, but Iā€™ve had way to many things go wrong with my grows this year

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@Eggs Iā€™d leave them on. They wonā€™t waste energy because they donā€™t grow as soon as the real leaves start and thereā€™s no reason to shock the plant further or make a wound for pathogens to get in to. Theyā€™ll fall off on their own when the time comes.

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Oh no Iā€™m not worried about waisted energy, I meen remove them in an attempt to offset the ffof burning the plant, was my reasoning for that

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I meen Iā€™m sure as long as it dosenā€™t burn to bad n it keeps growing itll eventually be fine anyway lol but this other one is crazy, itā€™s like frozen, Iā€™ll take a pic

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It didnā€™t look like nitrogen burn in the photo you shared before. It looked more like a deficiency from overwatering or a root problem. If it was nute burn the cotyledons would have turned brown after yellowing and likely would have died shortly after sprouting.

Leaving them on wonā€™t cause your plant to burn and like I said taking them off and causing that shock may stunt it further and leave an open cut or wound for pathogens which can wipe a seedling out fast.

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