Has anybody had any luck cross breeding In here?

As I get more experienced with growing and figuring out what works for me this is something i plan on doing in the future. I don’t want to know what your trying to mix not asking to give up your secrets. Just more on the lines of how long you’ve been trying, any problems you’ve faced and any tips ,Do/Donts when it comes to doing so before I start my YouTube/Google Search on this topic


@IraSpaunsble first the don’ts. Do not use your colloidal silver or keep your males around any female plant you intend to consume or you don’t want to breed. Don’t choose plants to breed just by how they look or their size. Don’t pollinate your breeding plants in the same area as your consumption plants. Don’t breed hermaphrodites.

Dos. Do make clones of plants you want to breed to make pollen control easier and to sex your plants early so you don’t waste time and nutes on the males. Clones will make enough pollen to pollinate literally hundreds of plants. Do bag up your males before throwing them away after collecting pollen. No one wants to be known as a pollen chucker. Do choose males based on nodal spacing, terpene profile (smell), and resistance to disease and pests. Do choose females on the same including resin production. Do choose strains that will compliment each other and “balance” or “enhance” each other.

That’s about all I got right now without breaking down specifics.


Be real careful with pollen. It doesn’t take much like MDbuds says. Taking clones is a must if you are pheno hunting or sexing more than just a few plants. Like MDbuds says too. Don’t forget to label them also. I had to switch from plastic and wood stick tags to blue painters tape. The damn crows think it is hilarious to steal my tags from my trays. Every year. They do it for fun as far as I can tell. They drop the tags in a pile by by garden and squawk. I don’t have the heart to buy a BB gun.

Anyway, I have kept my males offsite at a friends house before. Then selectively pollinated a branch of my harvest crop. I cut a small cluster of open stamens into a paper bag (off site @ friends) Then returned and showered and changed clothes. Next I carefully placed on one female branch on a big 6’ jillybean in full flower. I taped it off and gave it a couple days. When I removed the pollen paper sack I slid into a bigger ziplock and so carefully removed it and sealed it. To my surprise the whole plant was seeded, and the plant next to it, and so on. Seeds in all 18 of my plants. I don’t pollinate my fall crops anymore. I am primarily an outdoor grower if you did not catch that.

Now days I just wait until my fall outdoor crop is in. Then Indoor i have female clones ready to go immediately after. I try to have them be about 12” tall and 12hrs. At early flower stage. No need for big buds in the low winter light. You will still get plenty of seeds from lil buds. And way less immature seeds this way in my opinion. I put them all together under my rain fly temporary green house. Then I put just 1 male on a milk crate (place of honor that old milk crate) to raise him up. Let the pollen fly.

Then switch and repeat with another stud. All winter long. I usually wait about 3 weeks before the next seed run as to minimize a chance of lingering pollen. (I am not sure how long pollen would linger in a drier warmer place like the SW US. Anyone have INPUT about this? )
Here the rain ensures a clean wash. It rarely freezes here (near Seattle) and when it does I garage em for a day or two. It would not work in colder areas. Also my # 1 trait I breed and shop beans for is mold resistance. Some strains (GDP, Bubba kush, Agent Orange) in my experience would not appreciate a rain rinse even on small winter seed buds. Moldy messes of goo. Hogs breath too ( as in too moldy ha).

My males (I try to do 3-4 max. Hard to narrow it down sometimes) are chosen by smell (terps) and presence of trichomes as all ready mentioned in mdbuds post. Most males in my experience never get any trichomes at all. So that twinkle in the sunlight always catches my eye on males.

The only other trait I select for is flower time. I notice almost all my males reveal their balls right after solstice (early). Or right around 12-13 hours (late) September here). And virtually never in between. It happens but rarely. Being an outdoor grower mostly I like the early boys better.

My chosen males are then placed out front of my place as far from the females as possible. Literally street side. I mangle them by hacking off above first node no matter how big. They stress major and stall growth. I don’t believe any have ever died. The idea is to keep them bonsai root bound and small (discreet). Then I burry the pots guerilla style into the top layers of my Laurel hedge. The laurel hedge is directly under a city street light at the road. 24 hours light keeps them vegetative and pollen free. I just hack them every week no matter how hard they try to grow. Also keep the laurel hedge messy. No square hedge or they won’t camo in well. After the fall crop is in, and the sacrificial female seed clones are ready, I just set a male on the milk crate of honor out back. Surrounded by my keeper lil lady clones. He will start growing balls immediately.

You will end up with hundreds of seeds this way if not thousands. Then share share share. Seeds galore. Nothing like a trusted group of friends to help your pheno hunt potential. Last tip is to be ruthless in pheno hunting the seeds. If you are on the fence about a plant let it go. Only keep keepers. Then make them breeders.

I don’t usually run the seedlings in the raised bed until the second year. What I mean is I pheno hunt (and sex) a hundred or so in tiny 1/3 gallon pots (or smaller). Once I have ID the (new seedling) keepers they get cloned. Clone early looking for terps and trichomes before the females really flower, or unique growth patterns that catch your eye. Be generous and have fun. Once the new seedlings (lil mamas essentially) start to flower you can narrow it down and get ruthless. Be aware that once calyxes stack it’s much harder and slower to root clones from the seedlings you are pheno hunting (IMPORTANT). Also Clone 2 of each no matter how good you are. In case 1 dies. You don’t want to loose the best of the keepers this way. It has happened to me soo many times. All others go to compost. Be ruthless or your stock won’t improve. Then next year they get to grow big in the raised beds.

I have never bred autos so I am ignorant on the matter. Just ran them for fun a few times. I Have no beef w autos, just maxed out for space with my current routine. And my wife won’t let me cut out the veggies and strawberries too🍓.

Definitely take notes… especially if you are a stoner like me. Grow logs a must🙏.


Great info from you and @MDBuds. :slight_smile:


Great advice
I find label label label everything
Maybe double or triple redundancy
Nothing like looking at a beautiful seed and
It is a magic mystery
Trust me
Ounce of prevention is worth a lb of cure



Not having green causes stress
Having green relieves stress
If you smoke some weed
Plant a seed
Good day and god



You have some beautiful seeds. Do you cure them? I’m asking as I’m new to this on the cannabis and medicinal herbs/flowers side.

If you mean stratify
Yes they hibernate
On the vine or rather in the bud at least twenty one days to
Form good hard seed shell
From time of inception
I like to give twenty eight days or
Longer for
Viable seed
Slow cure no machines
Those are Barney Farms regulars LSD purebreds


Do you put them in a jar, screen, or something similar? I’m actually at the point in my education where I need to winterize seeds and wonder if I could incorporate this somehow. If I have any males pop up, I think I’m going to try my hand again at a controlled seeding (can’t think of the proper term). Thank you for your patience with me.

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LSD strain - is it as trippy as they claim or just coined a good name

@kmac03 to winterize cannabis seeds you just leave them in the flower and seed hull. It’s how they survive the winter in nature and remain viable until spring surviving frost, mold, and rain.

Don’t pull them out of the flower until you intend to harvest and sprout them. I’d leave them outside in a jar with no lid in the shed or some place cool so they have some protection.

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Im using that. I’m staring a Good Vibes quote thread soon and this is going in #2 position


Coined good name
Cut through green if done right
High will cut through any previously smoked herbs
Ranks up their with train wreck
But does not wreak as bad in grow
Just don’t brush the leaves
Connoisseur grade 24% thc
Barney’s farm has never
Me disappointed
Easy to
Especially for beginners

You can add
Keep it simple stupid
Keep it simple silly

Remember less is more
And if you don’t get right
You will get left


If you don’t mind it doesn’t matter

I’m grateful for you. Lesson done!! I mean, not done yet, but I think you get it.

So, to summarize to be sure I have it:

Leave seeds in flower, put in jar during harvest, leave outside under the steps for some protection.

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@kmac03 exactly but don’t put a lid on the jar. You don’t want the rh getting out of control. You got it.

If you do use a lid poke holes in it.

Here’s to hoping I write this down sooner rather than later. Otherwise, we will have ‘Groundhog’s Day.’

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The utmost
Ie no rodents
I store
Mine in the fridge until next season


Oh ya

“If your not wasted, the day is!”

Wow!!! That is an amazing system. I’m not being facetious either. I hope you don’t mind if I screen shot? I have a hard time with organization unless I have an outline, so to speak.

Sure I share graciously
Unlike the days
Of the past where greed is good
And growers
Lucky if anyone shared clones
Much less secrets

I dry branches on the edge of a paper grocery bag
And when the buds dry a lot of seeds come out of the bud
You can easily write
On a bag the strain of the branches
Then go through each bud and harvest all
Of them they after all hold the genetics and keys to

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