Volunteers-How do I finish?

While preparing my Greenhouse mid-Feb for the new season, I noticed 6 volunteers growing in the soil.
I mentioned in an earlier thread I had 4 plants go seedy on me last year.
So were these from old seeds, new seeds, clones???
Regardless, I moved them to 1 gal pots and tried to supply extra light from garage neons for 18-21 hours total until transition.
I was rewarded with 3 nice ladies now in early/mid bloom.
(Tried to upload a pic, sorry if missing or too huge.)

I am on a G.O. Biothrive feeding schedule for 12 weeks now + Full strength Tea and a Molases Powder rinse Weekly. But we’re approaching Solstace (14:22 duration here + visible) AND with the heat coming I want to avoid ReVeg and keep my flowers!

Any suggestions from the Forum on finishing them out in the next 6-10 weeks? Thanx to all

1 Like

Just a thought:
you will have to find a way to blackout the light so you reach 12/12
If you can tarp it or buy TALL WARDROBE boxes that will cover the plants…that works
I live in the SW desert and we also get the super hot summers that kill off everything…hard to withstand 116°F+ temps for over 3 weeks and >110° for almost 2 months or more
I bought the wardrobe boxes, made sure all the seams were covered well so no light penetration and I drop them over my plants at 6pm, 7, 8 or even 9pm (later as summer rolls in due to the cooking issues), remove 12 hours later…It facilitates flowering…I have to get this done before it gets too hot as 5pm is hottest part of the day here in Las Vegas NV, USA. They can cook if not careful. It is a gamble but the best I can do other than move them every day in and out of a tent…pretty hard when you got 100L containers

Thanx Mike, Last year the heat beat my plants up big time…early flowers, re-veg, reckless Boys and pregnant Girls, Lucky to get any smoke out of it. So I am starting much later this year for my main crop (5/2 germ).
But your last line may be the key to achieving 12/12.
These gals are in 5 gal plastic (not too heavy). So it may be easy to pop them into the garage (not too hot) for the last few hours of the day. (20’ trip), Then move them back out after dark to be ready at daybreak…
Whaddya Think?

Someone mentioned that to me…use my red wagon to transport…My containers are too large for that but 5 gal pails would be much easier to move. Just remember, once you flip, you do not want to allow light at all during the dark period
Instead of late in the season, I went early. I have a tent outside on the porch and start in Dec/Jan…I hope to harvest by July/Aug the latest and will have seedlings in the tent and hope they can withstand the heat. If not, I do not LOOSE a big plant,just babies…Maybe I will just plant autos in the garden and what lives, lives…

1 Like

Mike, I wanted to comment on how much the application of silica has meant this season. Like you battling wind, “Santa Ana’s” we call them, I read about silica helping. I added it to their feed water, applied it as a foliar and the stems of the vegging plants are noticeably thicker, need no bracing. They will get several more applications thru veg. to insure against the fall Santa Ana’s. We’ve had strong winds already and they stood up fine.

be careful, you can overdo it. Silica affects Ph and soil. It also makes the stems and branches brittle…they crack easily if you want to LST

1 Like

Thanx for this last tip, Mike.
We have 2 full moons before harvest not to mention the Critters and Motion Light issues.
On the 12th I started the total 12 hr blackout in the garage from 7:30 pm until 7:30 the next day so there will be no unwanted light issues…

Marching on to Harvest!

1 Like

Monk, they look great…I do see spots on the leaves and something like pepper in near the base of the buds. Do you have mites?

Mike, Thanx for the heads up, I will inspect closely when I wake the girls up this morning.
Maybe post some close ups for your diagnosis. Growing outside I’ve not noticed mites in the past. But while my seedlings look good for the new crop, this is a bonus crop that ‘volunteered’ so I am in a different time frame. It’s the first time I have done 12 hours inside for the light. There may be a few other issues that come up, In this genetic detour.

@MDBuds would you take a look at Monk’s pics please…do you see mite or aphids (black) at the base of the buds and the spots on the leaves? I would like your opinion please

1 Like

Hi Mike, Here’s some pix of 1, 2 & 3:

Sorry for the delay, I had a pond issue that took priority this morning.
#3 was a recent 2:5gal replant and there could have been a bit of debris in the earlier photos.
Hopefully these are much clearer.
Thanx, Monk

yes they are thanks…just being careful…mites can take you down.
So do we get to call it “POND SCUM”?

More like Ocean Forest particulates…
Besides the fish might take it personal and some are too big to piss off.
Mike, Thanx for your help, Monk

@Mrb53004 @Monk hard to tell 100% but those spots do look like mites or whiteflies. Could potentially be thrips but I’m not seeing any of the silver lines or veins they leave in the leaves.

Thanx Doc!
I am planning to thin out the shrubbery tomorrow a bit.
I will post pix of a couple examples of the blight for a diagnosis, Monk

Trimmed up what we used to call ‘waterleaf’ on #2 to let some light in…still a valid term?
Took pix of a couple leaves that might have issues:

some of the under leaf hitchhikers? (on a few leaves) and 2 that look chewed.
Any help is appreciated and here’s the thinned #2:

Crappy photo, sorry. Will post #1 & #3 as I find the time today, Monk

Here’s plant #1 with a 3rd leaf symptom:

And the new lean version:

Any help, direction, treatment ideas are most welcome, Monk

1 Like

well, you definitely got an insect issue and you are in flower. That means no NEEM oil, Pepper oil or any other oil. Sprays…careful to not wind up with mold from wetting buds/flowers…
lets see what others might have to say. You do not want to use an insecticide, that will leave residue
And the soil must also be treated for eggs, larvae, etc…
And the tent, and exhaust vents, and fan/s…

@MDBuds any ideas on an organic treatment that wont damage the flowers? I have my BUG-OFF but I need to identify the culprits first to see if my organic has an arsenal broad spectru enough to deal with his infestation

Let see what the community may recommend, I am not the only one who makes recommendations

1 Like

@Mrb53004 @Monk definitely thrips. I can see the silver spots they leave on the closer photos. Maybe some mites too because I see what appears to be some mite eggs. The holes eaten are likely grasshoppers/crickets, caterpillars, or earwigs. To help rule it out some more can you try to get photos first thing in the morning just before sunup? This is when all of the pests I mentioned eating holes will be out because they’re nocturnal.

Regardless of what they are your best bet in my experience is safer brand insecticidal soap with seaweed extract. It can be used from seed to post harvest bud rinsing safely. It works as an insecticidal soap and a foliar feeding.

So far I have used it to get rid of white flies, thrips, earwigs, and fungus gnats. It works pretty good. Just apply as directed.

Another thing that helps if it is earwigs or caterpillars is to trim off all of the lower leaves close to the soil and then oil up the meristem and lower side branches with whipped coconut oil with some almond oil and lavender extract. The coconut and almond oil is slick and will stop them from climbing and if they manage to climb it the oils will suffocate them. The lavender extract is a repellent that will keep a lot of pests away as well. It’s a good organic alternative to petroleum jelly.

1 Like

My solution is $30 a bottle plus shipping (will do 1st class free) and will effectively deal with 90% of your problem. I would do the coconut oil / lavender as recommended creating a dam between the plant and the soil. We used to do that for ants…make a petroleum jelly barrier to stop them from climbing.
Think it over…but you have to do something or they will ruin your harvest

1 Like