Visually impaired grower. Not sure what to look for

these are very good pics
looks somewhat like iron deficiency, and a little Nitrogen deficiency
lets ask @MDBuds for his opinion, I value it GREATLY

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Thanks, Mike. I should note today is day 48 since sprouting.

The soil is a full bag of FFOF with a 2cup or so plug of happy frog in the middle that served as buffer for the seedling stage. I haven’t added any other nutes to the system, counting on the five gallon sized fabric pot and a whole bag of OF watered with cap off aged city water.
Light is SF1000 run 18/6 and maxed out for distance with 30 inch tall plants.

Honestly I’m skittish of additional nutes with autos and FFOF soil. If someone could diagnose and make recommendations, if only for the next crop, I’d be really grateful. That’s the piece I’m missing, and there is nothing as messy and contradictory as the bro science of weed.

Day 49. This is the bud leading the pack in maturity.

I cut away the string net and rotated the plants a bit.

Looking to go to max ripening this time without going around the bend into CBN land. What do you think? Another month maybe, if I can keep them drinking.

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@Mrb53004 I see some nitrogen deficiency as well as some iron. Also see a bit of phosphorus deficiency and some potassium deficiency. Nitrogen deficiency is pretty common in late flower and not a concern really.

The other issues are an easy fix. Just add a little pk booster and some micros to the feed. Just enough to finish the girls out.

They’re indoors, in ocean forest soil. No additional nutes. Could you make a more specific suggestion? I am lost in the advertising hype on the chemistry. Thanks.

@Northcountryguy FFOF soil isn’t a seed to harvest soil so it will need amendment usually in mid to late flower.

A good feeding with some black strap molasses and liquid kelp will give a decent boost.

Amending with a mix of bone meal, kelp meal, dolomite lime, and Epson salts will cover all the bases for late flower as well.

Using dry amendments is usually cheaper than buying a nutrient system.

It looks like your plants are starting to get starved for nutrients because the soil is depleting late in flower and it needs a boost to finish out so you can get a decent yield and potency.

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Ok. So I’m in week eight, if you’re me, what would I buy and how would I dose it. Feeding pots each containing a full bag of FFOF.

Amazon has
click here
that should address the bone meal and replace kelp (with alternate ). Epson salt (PLAIN)- from any Walgreens / Supermarket…only a teaspoon needed in gallon water)
and molasses - supermarket again but look for UNSULFURED, organic
Dolomite lime -
click here

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Eight weeks from sprout today. My glaucoma is kicking my butt. I could do with an assessment as to how long to chop.

looks like you have 3 to 5 weeks more
I see the stigmas starting to turn yellowish but thee are still plenty of NEW ones
when about 80% of the stigmas have turned, we take a good look at the trikes
If you are feeding nutrients, time to start focusing on FLOWER production so no more Nitrogen
time for P & K
around 3 weeks from now, I would begin a CLEAN WATER FLUSH…that can run a week to 10 days, then no more water, then 72 hours of darkness and CHOP CHOP my friend

If you continue to feed or have much N in the soil (Organic), new stigma will continue to develop and extend grow time

You can use ice water feeding at the end of the first week on flush to get the terps and thc up

Thanks, Mike. With my vision, they frown on me driving, so I ordered the fox farms liquid nute trio. Of course there had to be a deadly storm right when I ordered, leaving my stuff in PA. It just arrived today. Of course I just watered last night. I guess big bloom and tiger bloom to finish them off. Then of course I’ll be able to do better next time. I just found an article saying FFOF is onlh sufficient for 20-30 days. These girls are day sixty four.

do not believe al you read. I have taken plants from sprout to finish with nothing but FFOF and ONLY using FULL TILT the last 3 / 3 weeks
Please check that you got SOIL and not HYDRO formula…they are different

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Thanks. While it’s obvious not everyone uses the same methods, that’s maddeningly complicated by the historically clandestine and therefore mostly unscientific culture of weed. The products I bought are for soil.

use LESS than what is prescribed…I cut them al least in half. I water a smaller amount but more often…like feeding coco or peat…water drains through quickly so in that substrate you can feed 3x a day. I do not DRENCH the plants when I get to flower…I feed a little from the top and a little from the bottom (wicking)

I’m a believer in scant water, stressing a plant a bit to find water, then moderate watering. Now if I watered liberally, where the saucer got quite wet each watering, then maybe they’d need more because the roots weren’t as conditioned to searching. As it is, a plant trained by my method is going to find the fortified water, so I don’t need to have it as strong. That’s my theory I’ve used in north Florida and northern New York, indoors or out with herbs and tomatoes and peppers. Weed is somewhat unique, but reacts to conditioning.

“You can lead a root to water, but you can’t make em’ drink”!

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I’m gonna steal that…put it on my web site, OK?

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image

Ok, guys, time to play “be my eyes” for the mostly blind guy.

Blueberry auto day 60, 18/6 light, ffof in five gallon fabric pots. Finished the first gallon of water with added fox farms “bloom” additives, according to dosage. I’ve removed most of the fan leaves, as they had turned yellow or brown before I started with the nutes.
I’m seeing new growth still, and can’t really tell if trics are translucent or what. Assess?

Looks like you are getting heat / light and or wind burn. Some nutrient issues. The plants look like they are taking nutrients from the fans for the buds but you still have good stigma growth. Your pistils are white and not enough of them (%) are dark enough to make me look deeper into the buds at the trichomes
They are filling out nicely but maybe you can start LOWERING the temps, increasing darkness, slowing down on nutrient feeding…the tip curling is usually something associate with LOW humidity. Your lower leaves are green while the uppers are yellowing out…that is either the buds taking the nutrition from the plant or even just like FALL, when plants start to die, colors come out, leaves turn, fall…This late in the game I would not want or start playing with nutrition issues…just maximize the THC and terpene production

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Thanks, Mike. I am maxed out on vertical height under the light, and need about six inches of headroom they don’t have. Next crop will be under a revised light and filter mounting arrangement to get more height. I don’t dare mess with things too much at this stage. Maybe I could dial back the dimmer or the hours? Or just concentrate on the buds and ignore the ragged leaves? I dunno.