Top leafs yellowing

[Hagal (Heinz Escrich)]

Hello growers!

Im doing indoor growing and seems like my girls have a nutrient issue, the leafs at the top are yellowing and i just have not been able to make a proper diagnose. Im growing 2 Green poison auto on 7ltr pot and 4 blueberry muffins on 11ltrs pot and all of them are growing in soil, this far i have only applied deeper underground twice and top veg twice (the plants are 35 days old since i put the Seeds on the soil ) and waiting about 7 days each time the product is applied. Each watering has been done with 5.8pH and about 400uS with calmag and 600uS when using calmag+fertilizer. Also, i mixed about 7gr of diatomaceous earth for each pot and has done 4 transplants to each blueberry applying mycorrhiza in each transplant , and 5gr of diatomaceous earth for the Green poison wich has always been in 7ltr pots. The tent temperature goes around 24°C - 26°C and the humidity between 50-60%. My first thought was that the plants wasnt getting enough nutrients that It should be getting because all the myco on the soil but the roots are not that big to ask for a higher dose of nutrients, and since i cant diagnose the issue i just dropped on fertilize again untill i can fully understand what’s going on.

All the pictures was taken to the auto strains since the there’s only 1 blueberry with the same issue and i totally forgot to take a Pic srry u^-^

THX to everyone!

[MDBuds]

@Hagal looks and sounds like manganese deficiency.

To fix flush with water ph to 6-6.5. After flushing feed with a light feeding of your nutes. Make sure nutrients have manganese in them and ph feeding to 6-6.5.

High iron is often the usual culprit in manganese deficiency.

[Hagal (Heinz Escrich)]

Tyvm @MDBuds! I’ve never flushed the soil to fix a nutrient issue, how much should i water to each plant for It to work properly? Also, will that procedure stress the plants for too long or its just a matter of a couple if days to see the girls recovering? im wondering about it because both autos should start the Bloom about this week and i dont want them to start it stressed.

[MDBuds]

@Hagal the ratio is 3 to 1. 3 gallons of water per gallon of soil. I personally do it over a few days giving a rest for two days in between. So let’s say I’m using 5 gallon pots that’s 15 gallons. Day 1 I’ll run 7 through it. Next two to three days I just let the soil dry out a bit. After two to three days rest I will run another 7 gallons through and then 1 gallon distilled water phd to 6.5.

This almost always handles my nutrient and ph issues if I screw up bad in soil. After that just return to your normal feeding schedule.

To avoid further issues with iron or manganese make sure whatever nutrients you are using have them balanced 1 to 1 otherwise they will “compete” for uptake. Also avoid using chelated micros as much as possible because they often do more harm than good. They are always a last resort and should be used extremely sparingly.

[Hagal (Heinz Escrich)]

Tyvm @MDBuds i will start flushing today as soon as i finish my shift, its my third time growing and i just couldnt get the logic on the plant behavior.

Thanks for the fast reply! I Will post and update with pics when they have recovered

[Mrb53004 (Mike)]

wouldn’t LOW IRON, with the ph at 5.8 also do the same thing? 5.8 is near the bottom of where we want ph to be and low ph with an iron deficiency might affect the plant the same way. The strange part is yellowing from the tops, not the bottoms.
Have you thought of a urine spray mixed with a small amount of Epson salt? Quick nitrogen / Mg blast to the leaves in a foliar solution?

[Hagal (Heinz Escrich)]

I just finished flushing and did exactly what you said @Mrb53004 xD, i applied both nutrient directly to the leafs to see if they recover faster. About the Urine/salt, i cant assure It didnt happen since those fertilizer are the ones left from a previous grow, but i didnt have any problem with those plants, but the previous ones were much bigger than the actual plants i thought it was because of the strain, i think there might be results in the Next few days so as soon as i have an update i Will post It right away to you guys ^-^.

[MDBuds]

@Mrb53004 both iron and manganese are immobile. They affect new growth first and similarly. The difference being manganese causes necrosis in the intraveinal chlorosis and the area around the chlorosis and necrosis remains a dark green. Iron on the other hand the whole leaf will yellow, get pale, develop necrosis, and then fall off. In the photos you can see the yellowing and chlorosis is intraveinal and the areas around it are still dark green.

[MDBuds]

@Mrb53004 iron also works from the inside toward the tip. So yellowing will begin near the stem and move outward toward the leaf tip where as manganese starts at the tips usually. Ph does have a part in both manganese and iron uptake too so that’s why I suggested the ph and flush. The optimal ph for soil to nutrient uptake is between 6.2 and 6.8 which is why I suggested the soil flush to be Ph close to 6.5.

[Mrb53004 (Mike)]

And that one goes IN THE BOOKS!
Sorry that I do this but it makes people both explain the who / what / when / where / why and helps everyone LEARN!

[MDBuds]

@Mrb53004 I get it man. No need to be sorry about it. Only way to learn is to ask questions. I don’t take it personally. I figured you were trying to make sense of it yourself because a lot of these issues look very similar and have slight differences barely noticeable unless you’re trained to find them or have experience dealing with them.

Manganese and iron deficiencies and toxicities aren’t really that common and when they pop up often are treated as nitrogen or calmag issues. Hell, it’s what I did my first time dealing with them racking my brain trying to figure it out.

[Mrb53004 (Mike)]

exactly…funny how many times we face the same issue yet the cause is something else…NEVER TOO OLD TO LEARN…take it from this old guy

[Hagal (Heinz Escrich)]

Ty all for the help. Just to keep you updated, i measured the pH of the water comming out from the pot during the flushing and it was the same pH of the water that i used to do the flushing (6.2). Seems like the soil’s pH was higher than the one i was using to water the plants and i dont know if that’s posible, im thinking on getting a new meter the one im using might be Broken.

[MDBuds]

@Hagal soil microbes and nutrients will change soil ph and make it fluctuate. 6.2 is good. Did you do a slurry test on the soil too to check soil ph? Run off ph can be misleading in soil because it can wash out water soluble nutes and change run off ph but if it’s the same going in and coming out you’re fine.

[Hagal (Heinz Escrich)]

I couldnt do a slurry test because of my shifts, to do the flushing i had to sleep about 3 hours >.<. Anyway, the plants looks healthy now i asked to my girlfriend to take a picture of the tent and this is how they look now

The yellow leaves are still there but at least the branches are stright again, i guess its a sign of recovering (?)

[MDBuds]

@Hagal yeah. The branches straightening out and the leaves perking back up and praying is a sign that the flush is working.

[MDBuds]

@Hagal the yellow and the necrotic spots will stay even after recovery though because it was an immobile nutrient issue so just keep an eye on the new growth that comes and make sure that’s healthy.