First I thought it was to much Nitrogen , after recommendations of the board I washed that girls thoroughly with ph corrected water . Now is healthy and budding again as I have lots of pistils. She’ll be 90 days from seed on 5/9:thinking:how long do I have b4 making her crazy ?
without looking at the trichomes, we use the pistils as a measuring stick. If your pistils are white / beige and continuing to flourish, you continue to let her grow. Before the trikes start clouding and turning amber, the pistils are usually light to darker orange / brown. Get in and look with a jewelers loupe and go from there.
If you start giving heavy N, and not enough darkness, combined with high heat, they will grow and possibly foxtail on you. Watch your temps, humidity and P&K values to insure she thinks winter is coming…she can get very thick…oh so thick
I have a little scope and Trichome wise she is ok , clears , cloudy light ambers. I personally like cloudy leaning amber and lots of amber . Apparently still has room to grow, however. I open the colas when I started the washes , maybe stress maybe more light coming in , I don’t know . How about another week dry as a bone? Or one more wash and let is starve . Also the ph is good coming out at 6.3.
nowhere near ready…let her keep growing
Nice!! Those are going to be some fat little colas !
SO the moon is full on the 27th and then begins to wain. As the gravitational pull weakens, it is a good time to harvest. We reach the NEW MOON by the 11th…Watch the trikes carefully, that would be the best time to harvest. Watch the trikes carefully. If you are still adding growth (new white pistils), push her another month…especially if you like amber trikes. Many do not realize that you can almost double your buds density during the last 3 weeks of growth. If you can go that far, June 1-10th (with 10th the best), schedule her for harvest then
I always thought an auto was 90 days max written in stone that is great to know !
check out @Kronic YouTube channel where he pushes his ladies plants for over 120 days…
I sure will! I have a question a just washed the pant I mean maybe 10 gallons trying to get the output nitrogen unfriendly but nothing work , tap water , super high ph corrected water a I got the most perfect 6.5 I have ever got in output would you recommend to go high or low to deplete the nitrogen ?
I am having trouble understanding…Water, plain water, high or low ph, will flush soluble Nitrogen out of the soil. Many times, when you see a seedling with yellow leaves it is becasue we overawater and reduce the available N is the soil. Insoluble N has to break down (the soil does this) before it is available for use and watering will flush out the soluble portion…this is why we flush.
What are you trying to accomplish? You seem focused on reducing or flushing the N…what is your thought process behind this?
Based on others “recommendations”
The leaves where to green and nitro needed to be reduced . What I was trying to do was to reduce ph by 4 or rise the ph by 9 to deplete the nitro .
There is another factor that maybe is making this a bit confusing , I’m using live soil, maybe that is keeping thing on check but I was very surprised to see that everything I did to get the ph out of whack actually gave me an output of perfect 6.5 I was like ok let it rest and try another day.
The question is now , do I need to wait until is bone dry and the tap water? Or if I push to June do I go ph water corrected wit my no need to wash? I know I’m a mess writing in English
Hey Mike @Mrb53004 see you’re doing well!! Just put my OCK Auto in 48 hr darkness.
Take care & happy growing.
Man ! I really know nada! I though darken auto was a capital !
What was the reason ?
I understand completely
When you have a TRUE LIVING SOIL…you do not need to add nutrients to your solution (watering) SOMETIMES, as there are usually enough nutrients in the soil to take it all the way to harvest if done right or enough LivSoil is used. This does not mean LivSoil doesn’t sometime get its nutrients depleted by the plant but hard to tell except by experience.
Ph…do not use ph to lock out N…you will destroy the living portion of the soil…Just use water to feed and you can continue to use additives (molasses, kelp–they help the soil which in turn helps the plant absorb the nutrients in it). Molasses, by its nature, will lower ph…and lock plants ability to take nutrition for itslef and soil.
Bone dry no…lift your container, feel the weight…you will be able to learn when she is dry enough to water. If she starts DROOPING, she needs water. If she feels light, she needs water…
Watch her trichomes and pistils…When you are near harvesting, there will be enough time to cut back / cut off water, 2 days darkness, clip….
NOTE - not for autoflower but for Photoperiods - you can leave a few (2, 3, 4) lower branches with small (popcorn buds / nugs) and UNFLIP it back to VEGETATION…
Autoflowers run on hormones so it stops you from doing that but you CAN do that with photoperiod plants and grow for another harvest in the future.
ask fr directions please
what beautiful colors…like spring has sprung…or springed sprang, spranged…
Understood the upcoming are growing nutrient free. Watering is fine, that I do well , love those pots . I had other grows that were a breeze with nirvana seeds but this last 2 times they were terrible ! Won’t but from them again .!those were bubblelicious
These have the most beautiful coloring! WOW!!!
After last night wash they started to close ! There still room to grow for the trichomes ! Thanks !! image|340x499
Good info @Mrb53004, I love to be reminded what i should be doing. Always LEARNING!!
Here’s my OGK I’m chopping today!!
Did some wet trim & back to dark. Chopping tonight:clap: