Lowryder auto, droopy and burning

I think she may be ready for harvest, but she keeps getting sick on me. I am using miracle gro pitting soil with rabbit droppings as fertilizer. She was droopy last week, I broke up the soil. She was dry last night and I gave her about 1/2 cup of RO water (each plant). Any ideas on the burn (fresh w/in 12 hours)

2 Likes

Remember, this is just an opinion
The leaves are droopy and I can see some purpling / redding of the stems, a good sign of over watering which can account for some burn
MiracleGrow - Myself and MANY others find it WAY TOO HOT. Miracle grow works on using HIGH Nitrogen to facilitate lush growth. When we reach flowering, we want the nitrogen reduced dramatically and the P & K increased to pump up the flowers
Rabbit dropping are high in Nitrogen also, so now you are compounding the N

2 Likes

You’re a guy who seems to know how to grow!! Looking at the 1st pic, I can’t tell if the plant’s been trained - never seen a plant trained like these though & the main cola reaches within mere inches to his lights. Yes, almost all beginners overwater their plants but the leaves look to me like there’s a shortage/too much nutes. Looks like his copper is low or not being absorbed. Hopefully he used CalMag, Micronutrients etc.

1 Like

Definite signs of overwattering & perhaps nute burn/ deficiency in a couple spots. Do you add any micronutes to the Miracle Gro? Purplish leaves, if it’s not the strain, is a sign copper is low or your water needs ( needed, too late now!) a pH adjustment. I’ve never tried Lowrider. I believe it was the first auto flowering plant, very high CBD & next to no THC. I may give it a try actually ( cancer ) & see what this CBD stuff really does. Same thing you’ve read already: Miracle Gro is good for growing but too much Nitrogen for flowering. I’ve found that lowering the temperature (autos can grow at 0C) during your lights off period. Yes, autos DO need “sleep” to grow to their full potential. I keep autos on 18/6 the entire grow, letting my apartment temp to go down to 15C while the lights are off. Looks like the CannaFairy sprinkled sugar on my buds!

1 Like

Hi @Birdogsid!

Welcome to HGCC!

I am definitely new to autos, so I’d follow what @Mrb53004 and @GunzCanadaSYLO said. My question is, maybe that nute burn is because of the white stuff… What is that? Calcium? Powdered neem? I’m asking because I see it on the thermostat and some other places and I’m wondering if you got some of that powder on the leaves? She seems like she might be having trouble breathing. Was your soil compacted?

My question to @Mrb53004 and @GunzCanadaSYLO, for something like this, will it kill the plant to repot it in less hot soil? I feel like I would be tempted to just do it myself. @Birdogsid don’t follow my advice/questions if you are tied to outcomes and I appreciate your patience with me while I ask questions on your thread. I’m going to plant an auto on purpose soon and I’m learning, too.

1 Like

The best way to check and see if it’s over watered stick your fingers around the bottom hoses see how wet the bottom of the plant are if its real wet doesn’t need watered just til you can tell by the weight

1 Like

The white stuff that looks like sugar sprinkled on the buds are trichomes. It’s the blueish-grey powder that’s mold - very bad but better air circulation ought to correct it if caught early enough. They say you’re not supposed to transplant autos… BS! I wouldn’t do it more than once or twice & be very gentle repotting the plant’s in a new medium. Autos turn hermaphrodite quite easily if you shock the plant too much. I find you NEED to transplant them at least once. To drop one seed in a 5 gallon fabric pot will just leave you with even smaller plants than autos already produce. I plant autos in a small flower pot with a humidity dome. Let that sucker fill out & let them roots grow & grow then soak your growing medium in what’s to be their final pot, in the dark ( very little light - you still need to see what you’re doing! Light will screw your roots up good) GENTLY tap the plant out of the small pot. Loosen up the roots very gently if they’re too compacted then place in a pre-dug hole in the wet medium ( peat moss in MiracleGro’s case ), gently place the plant in its final pot. At least with a good root system already half-developed & being very gentle, you CAN transplant autos & I’d actually suggest it. Cloning has worked but you need to take a cutting while the Mother plant is still very young. Autos flower because of genetics, not seasonal/light cycle changes. The clone will flower the same time as the plant it was cut from & you don’t want a bunch of tiny clones flowering before they’ve even had a chance to grow.

1 Like

The white stuff are trichomes - just what you want. Yes, you can repot the plant’s once, maybe twice but autos go hermaphrodite very easily with stress. You can buy peat other than MiracleGro & I doubt you can flush the excess N so yes, myself I’d repot them in a better suited peat or coco coir/nutrient combo.

1 Like

I am not sure what the WHITE stuff is on the SOIL…could be DE, perlite, sand. Only Birdog knows. The 1st plant could be SATIVA, it looks like that growth pattern, tall, lanky, wider interspatial nodes.
Nute issues - yes but, could all be due to overwatering, MG and Rabbit poop. I would not go further than that. You fix 1 problem at a time
Transplanting - MOST definitely. Many go for a flush but if you are GENTLE and CAREFUL, a transplant is OK. The problem is that you take the root ball with you so if it is nutrient based, the problem continues in the new container
I also transplant auto’s. It usually extends their grow time, allowing for larger returns but it has its downside. We take chances when we can afford mistakes. If you can’t afford the mistake, do not take the chance.
@Birdogsid - tell us what the strains and genus of the plants are

1 Like

Thanks, @GunzCanadaSYLO, I appreciate your knowledge. The white stuff I was referring to was the powder that is in the pots and the thermostat. :grimacing:

1 Like

Thank you, I’m grateful for your knowledge, as usual. Is the transplanting the same as photos? Meaning, 1 gal to 3 gal and then done?

Photo are different than auto in SIZE. You can control the grow so no need to follow size up rules. You transplant if you want a bigger plant. The larger the root, the bigger the fruit. Invite @MDBuds here and he can give you the mathematical formula for container to plant

2 Likes

Do they look like little balls of styrofoam? Perlite? Or is this a white powder? Thermostats don’t produce trichomes so …really, without seeing this white dust I couldn’t tell you what it is. If it’s dust I’d be cleaning her good. That’s full of mites & other pests/germs.

You’re joking, right? :face_with_raised_eyebrow:

1 Like

II am serious. There is a formula for “size of container relative to size of plant”

1 Like

@GunzCanadaSYLO, hahahaha! You and I are on different pages for sure, My Friend. I’m talking about the powder in the pictures above that @Birdogsid posted. Thank you for the mental gymnastics, though. I needed to scrub out the fog. :v:t2: :rofl:

Thank you for sharing the knowledge! What an awesome group this is! The white powder covering the soil is diatomaceous earth. I had a run in with (what I believe to be) fungus flies, so, the D.E. is serving the purpose as a larva mutilator / pesticide. I also have a strip of flypaper stuck in the back to catch the adult flies. I’ve been forced to pull the plants in a helical pattern so the stretch doesn’t reach the lights. The flies were my first hint of overwatering. Now I believe I need to first—drill more drain holes in the bottom of the pots for these ladies (please stay that way) and invest in a secondary, taller house as well as fabric vessels. I’m terrified to repot the plants, but I need the practice. Is anyone able to guess blindly as to when this might be acceptable for harvest?

1 Like

Show us the trichomes, that way it will be easier to tell.

PS: I think you are awesome, too. Thanks for sharing with us.

Blindly - before we learned to see/use the trichomes to time our harvest, we harvested based on the pistils. It is much easier to see pistils than trikes, trikes require at least a magnifying glass or jewelers loop to determine clear vs cloudy vs amber. In years of old, when Knights were bold, we waited for all the pistils to be tan/brown and the bud to be thick. If we wanted a more up head, we harvested at tan. If we wanted couch lock, we waited an extra 2 weeks / brown. We were always close, close enough to satisfy our desires

2 Likes

Sometimes…a lot of times…I wonder if I’m being punked. It’s easy to dupe me. However, this is just a mundane observation.

3 Likes