How To Get Rid Of Spider Mites

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A spider mite infestation or even a sight of just a few is a cultivator’s nightmare. Despite its tiny size, the damage it can cause is colossal. If not terminated early, it can quickly devastate a single plant or an entire garden. It is one of the reasons why cannabis growers invest valuable time inspecting the floras every day.

What are spider mite predators?

Lady bugs, other predatory mites and if I remeber correctly there is a type of midge fly as well. The most common used agriculturally is the predatory mites, for home use lady bugs.

Thanks, I remember hearing about ladybugs, but from what I’m reading, they’re probably not that effective for the cost and trouble. I might try some in the spring anyway.

@Victor If your like me and don’t like spraying your plants with chemicals or pesticides, or your looking for an organic method, your best bet is ladybugs. I used to have so many problems with caterpillars and aphids. I’ve used ladybugs every year for the last four years and I have not had any issues with caterpillars, spider mites, or aphids. The lady bugs eat the moth eggs and spider mites and aphids, without harming your plants at all. And I’ve never paid more than $30 for 1500 live ladybugs, so the cost is well worth it. I release as many as I think is good for my plants and then release the rest onto my fruit trees.

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The predatory mites work, but only with a LARGE infestation, like outside large. They need a ton of food close to want to stay. I’ve only used lady bugs outside in the veg garden, and again you need a good amount of food for them present and the release timing needs to be right.

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I’ve used both lady bugs and praying mantis. Lady bugs are a bit faster but they leave their waste behind. I prefer praying mantis. They will eat everything in their path including other mantis so it’s a good idea if you use mantis to place the egg sac and watch for it to hatch. As soon as it hatches move some of the larvae onto all of your plants. The larvae will eat each other if you don’t move them. Once everything is said and done you’ll end up with one adult mantis per plant and they will defend it from any and all other insects as they are blind and will literally eat anything their size or smaller. They’re fiercely territorial as well so any adult mantis that comes to their plant they will fight. It’s amazing to watch.


I have invented a spray, in conjunction with an associate of mine, to effectively deal with mites, gnats, flies and even thrips.
It is a nano Particle colloidal micelle solution and one of the side effects is ELIMINATING MILDEW and CLEANSINGIt is organic100% organic. Non-GMO. There’ s a trace amount of potassium bicarbonate (wine reduction agent) for pH adjustment, but less than .001% by volume. The mold and cleansing capabilities are a “value added” accompaniment, even and especially airborne…I use it to washalso. I have not personally had mold issues to deal with (probably because I USE IT) but our development site cured it (before it tunneled through the bud/s). When I have a FULL DRYING session and/or high humidity, I spray the harvest to prevent mold during dry time. Another byproduct is protection from weather extremes, they “attract” water by their very nature (hydrophilic) so that’s going to help keep the plant moist during times of drought and heat stress, and they effectively lower the freezing point. (more concentration, lower it even more) So instead of ice forming on the surface of the leaves at say 32f, it’s going to be 20, or 10, or perhaps as low as 0, depending on the concentration, much like antifreeze works.
Use is about 15ml per gal of water…foliar spray, drench solution for washing, watering solution for soil-borne infestations / temperature protection. The effigy for mold is around 2 weeks before retreat is necessary.
I am hoping to have my “field tests” done soon and then send it to the lab for clearance. I will be offering it for sale, hopefully soon