Leaf tips started slowly turning down and turning yellow.
Growing in soil with perlite,
Sensi grow a and b for nutrients.
Any help appreciated!
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just looking at this picture I see good looking plants… But new growth looks a bit stressed, too much nutrient could cause this but I have also seen this as a plant deformity due to its lineage…are these autos that maybe are getting close to their end???..I would not do anything at this point…
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They are photos, strain is white widow. Would you cut back on amount that’s being fed? It could be degradation as these are clones of clones? I just swapped to 12-12 yesterday.
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without knowing your feeding amount/schedule and some other things I will say just sit back for now. I don’t think it’s a clone thing…
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Each plant gets fed once a week. 4 litres per plant, 4ml of each part A and B "sensi grow per litre of water. Supposed to feed tomorrow and was nervous to burn it/ deprive it of what it might need
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I am not familiar with the sensi grow product. Are you using package directions or guidance from someone who has used this product. Most nutrient manufacturer say to use more than what most of us believe is needed. You know your issue can also be caused by the roots getting TOOO BIG for the container…
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what were the lights before the flip to 12/12
what is the floor? Cement, wood…and where is the tent located. Has there been a change in temps in the area, a big move from high to low or vice versa.
THey really do not looked burned. I woulg give them 3 days to acclimate to the new light schedule. Check my ph in and runoff
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Lights were 18 and 6. The tent is in my garage, temp stays between 23-27 degrees. I put foam under the pots to keep them off the cement floor. Need to get a new ph meter as I went cheap the first go around and it was junk
It is really hard to mess up ph. Unless you are killing it with molasses or something that will throw the ph off, 90% of all soils will correct slight numbers. Coco, if not a prewashed substrate (the cheap stuff) will change ph. Salts will too and that comes from overfeeding or mixing your nutes too strong. ANy meter, even a junky one will show the ph run off is higher than the intake…that lets you know the salts are too high and you need to flush
let them settle a few days to acclimate to the new light schedule, every thing else seems ok, especially the faom under the pots. I put a blanket down under the tent to shield the bottom from the cold cement floor, it will transfer low temps
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I appreciate it, I’ll give a bit heavy of a water and test run off. Does anyone have have any experience with bloom/veg dials like this? Can’t find much of what to run at.
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my first LED light had those…I have read so many opinions on this but in the end I think it is a marketing gimmick…I still have that light and just leave both on all the time
I’ve been leaving it on 50% bloom and veg for the full spectrum but didn’t want to over do it
I got them used for a decent price I thought. Should have just got a known good light
One thing they are useful for is when you have seedlings you can turn the intensity down and keep the light close to the plant for warmth in winter sprouts…other than that time I turn up 100% on both
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LED values are deceiving in a way…your 3000W is actually a 260W light…Light emission is measured differently on LED and the meters are very expensive compared to a normal PAR meter. I personally run 100% on both unless using for seedlings or some kind of height limitation
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Wattage varies with all brands and none are exact. If you want a true wattage knowing that your voltage is approx 120v use an amp probe/meter for AC amperage and use ohm’s law to find true power/watts. AC fluctuates amperage at a steady voltage in your typical parallel circuit. If you run solar/DC, steady SERIES amperage and fluctuating voltage, you would meter voltage to find true power/watts. Or, just flip the switch and watch her grow! 
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I was just thinking (sorry not bud related) aren’t all house circuits off the main drop parallel ac circuits?
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In US, yes. If you run solar also, a transfer switch (for main) and inverter are needed to change frequency. Like a frequency drive tricks motors into running AC.
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I run my lights DC through splice into an inverter but have DC ballasts (oversized resistors) that run plant lights and I can switch output through the inverter. I measure both AC/DC true power to see which is running more efficiently at diff grow temps. I do it for a living so it seems natural, I guess. Wish I could just grow my plants and play in the yard though! 
someday…
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