First time grower with a few questions

So one of my seeds was a late starter but started non the less. I will be putting her in her cup in a few. Second pic is my first seed I think I may call it speedy lol. Putting her in the tent, with just my fans running for now.

Do you have them under lights if they break ground get them under some light

Yes they are under lights

Ok didn’t know have had some new grower’s didn’t know when to put under lights when they break ground happy growing

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My question do I follow light manufacturer spec to keep it at 24" @40%. Or do I put it closer with the same intensity. I don’t want them to grow long and scrawny

Remember humidity is temp dependent. If you cool the air, you reduce how much water it can carry, and RH rises. If you warm the air, RH falls.
The crazy-making part of an indoor garden is chasing temp and RH because (drumroll please) you’re going to water the soil, and the soil provides an awesome radiator for excess WATER. You water, RH goes high. You notice temps are high, so you cool the air, and the relative humidity goes high because you’ve cooled and shrunk the air.

I found that during the hottest, least controllable days, the window AC piped in via a dryer duct (ac not in grow space, just piping in cold air to the tent) helps pull a little water off the tent. I run a small dehumidifier all the time. Suck up stray moisture.

You also should pick up a small clip on fan you can hang in the tent and aim so it’s moving air UNDER the canopy, aiding in evaporation and plant circulation. As they grow, thin lower fan leaves a little to increase air flow under the canopy.

If your best efforts and Florida hot and sticky overwhelms your plants, put a bowl of ice cubes in the tent and blow air on it. Redneck air conditioning may save your grow if hot and moist air stalls circulation, especially when you can’t get it cooled off in the evening. They like a solid temp drop at night.

I would follow spec’s and if they try stretch lower the light. you can use your hand to check intensity of it im old grower so if it to hot for my hand i raise the light i keep mine at 20 inches

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Dude, you got more money than you do sense :-). First of all, you are only doing two plants. So are the auto flower seeds feminized too? If not, you have a chance of having two males lol. I would plant a minimum of four plants and eliminate the two weak ones if you don’t have adequate space. You may consider planting into a 2 gallon fabric pot after sprouting or just sprout them in the 2 gallon pots. I use them all the time and prefer them. It’s not that much of a hassle to transplant them from fabric pots. If your plant outgrows the 2 gal fabric pot, transplant them into 5 gal buckets with hole or a 7-8 gal fabric pots. For some reason, the fabric pots are smaller than regular pots for the same stated volume.
First of all - you don’t have the expertise or experience to take advantage of CO2. You will be wasting money if u pursue this.
Second - your light IS NOT SUFFICIENT. My recommendation (since you asked) Mars Hydro SP3000. Just trust me and buy it. Search Google Shopping for best prices.
Third - That Fox Farm soil is crap. You may want to mix the soil half and half like most noobs do. You may want to add %20 more perlite so that it drains better. Most Important - do not try to germinate/sprout in this soil. It is not smooth enough for seed germination and will kill seedlings because soil is too rich. Beware using soil with compost because the compost may be too raw and burn your plants. My experience with Fox Farm trash soil is that it will give you nitrogen toxicity from day 1. No way to eliminate this, in a typical situation, you would flush the soil to acceptable ppm concentration and pH. You flushing this soil before use is like paying for nutrients and then pouring them down the drain. Also, with Fox Farm, you gonna have an abundant supply of N2 for some time, but K, potassium, will be all used up first. You need to add K to your feed. The first thing you need to to do is adjust pH of Fox Farm soil. Ocean Forest will likely be at pH = 5.5. Happy Frog will pH=6.
You want to adjust the pH with 1TBLS of dolomite iron and 1 TBLS of gypsum per gallon of soil. THIS STEP IS THE MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL. Add these amendments until the soil is properly adjusted. Test soil pH. I recommend a good digital test ($60 or more). Do not buy cheap. If your pH is too high, just had more soil to bring the pH down. After pH is adjusted let the soil sit for more than 3 days and test again. For some unknown reason, my soil pH increased on its own from 6.5 to 7.5 from 1st week to 2nd week. It may need this time to stabilize, I’m not sure what is going on, honestly.
Do not feed your sprouts anything for two weeks. HOWEVER, make sure your germinating soil (and later plant container soil) has adequate amounts of micro-nutrients (Ca, Mg, Sulphur, and Iron-Trace nutrient) before planting. You will need to add these micro nutrients regularly, but not as often as the macronutrients.
Ditch the grow tent. YOU DONT NEED IT. You don’t need any air from the outside and you don’t need any fans but one - to move the plant leaves. get a rotating low output fan. You are only growing 2 plants, omg. If its in a bedroom, if the environment is comfortable for you 70-80F, RH=50%, you’re good to grow lol. If you need something from which to hang your grow light - tent is not the answer. Try furniture PVC to make your own hanging platform or use a shower adjustment tension rod. The rods sometimes fall though. You’ll need a lip beneath the rod end to prevent it from slipping down.
OK, Nough Said. Do your own research! Do not believe everything u read on-line. Only trust reputable sources - like Universities, Colleges, and agricultural community programs. Growing Marijuana is easy; you don’t need most of this crap everyone is trying to sell.
However you will need the following mandatory equipment for a good grow.

  1. PAR Light Meter
  2. pH Meter (Apera)
  3. Soil Moisture Meter
  4. Small Straw (to dispense pH Down or pH Up.
  5. Grow Light (Mars Hydro SP3000)
  6. Foliar Spray Bottle
  7. Watering Can
  8. Distilled Water Squeeze Bottle
  9. pH Calibration Solutions
  10. Good Book on How To Grow Marijuana Inside


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@Noobie who are you talking to about all that your talking about

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You sounding you are very prepared
. My only suggestion would be to not worry about the notes on your first grow with auto flowers… The happy frog and ocean forest have plenty on them… especially the ocean forest…Get the first grow under your belt using at least a 5 gallon pot…Good luck and happy growing.

I meant nutrients. lol

This is Mary at 5 days old. I kept her in the tent with the big light set at 50%.

And this is Jane, she is 3 days old. I kept her under the burple led I used to germinate. Just wanted to see how the different lighting and environment affected the plants and what works better.

the little spec on her leave is the seed casing that didn’t want to come off.

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@Noobie, the Mars Hydro SP3000 is 42” long so it won’t fit in the tent.

From your very long post I was able to glean one good piece of advise that is actually relevant to one of the OP’s questions:

@Mackerel, you asked about light distance. That’s not the best metric to go by. Noobies suggestion of a PAR meter is a better way to go in my opinion. The numbers you want to hit are:

Seedling < 500 umol
Veg 500-700 umol
Flower 700-1000 umol


Ok cool thank you. I guess I will try to invest into a par meter. Do you have any suggestions.

seedling stage lasts for 2 weeks. Do not feed fertilizer for the first 2 weeks. HOWEVER, it is important to have you seedling soil saturated with micro-nutrients - calcium, magnesium, and sulfur at the proper pH=6.5.

The meters made by Apogee Instruments are considered the gold standard. They’re also priced that way.

This is the one I’ve got - about 1/3 the price and it seems to give accurate measurements as far as I can tell. My buds grow fat and happy so I trust it.

Where the meters end up paying for themselves is during the early grow stages. You can drop your light in much closer to the plant and use the dimmer on your light to save some $ electricity.


OK cool sounds good, will definitely invest in this for my next grow.

the par of the sun is about 2000. The sun is the best grow light because it deeply penetrates. High Pressure Sodium penetrates deeply too. The LED light do NOT. So, its would be prudent to not limit the top leaves to any par value. Instead, let the grow light heat determine your distance and PAR. So the top leaves would get max par and the lower parts of the plant would get what they get. The PAR values CurrDogg420 states are just the values the plant can use. Exceeding these values will not enhance growth. However, you can exceed them without harming your plant - just watch out for the heat generated. Now, this is general information. Certain strains, sativa, love a lot of par and can tolerate heat better than indica.

You appear to be citing out of date information here. This is one of the primary reasons for the development of full spectrum LEDs. Your statement was true of the older blurple LEDs, which did not include green or far red wavelengths of light.

Here is some more up to date info:

I’ve heard those numbers cited from many sources and they’re working pretty good in my own “studies”: