2 Questions please. My buds are in their 5th week of curing, and are great but they are wimpy. These are white widow auto. They are not thick hearty buds. Would adding a UVA or UVB light bulb help? Any ideas on how to beef up my buds?
Thank you!
I’m following for knowledge. I have my first purposely planted auto, of which I accidentally broke off a newly grown branch. 
I’m having a hard time with being hands off.
What grow light r u using, I’d say it’s not strong enough wld be my first assumption without any further information
AGH! Sorry you lost your new branch 
One of the hardest things for me is leaving yellowing leaves on my plants. I hate seeing them.
I have two lights in my 4X4 tent. I have a Spider farmer 2000 and a Mars Hydro 1000. I only have 3 plants in there now. I wasn’t sure if I need UVA/UVB light bulb for extra light…
Hmmm well I’m not sure, what is ur distance from canopy?
I grew a gold leaf that did that exact thing and I came to the conclusion that the end result was due to a crappy light
15 inches above my plants. This is my first grow with these new lights. Thanks for your responses 
I was deeply offended. 
Like, “How dare you break off like that!”
Seems like there isn’t as much ‘give’ as a photo. I’m going to assume it’s one of the differences structurally. Just ruminating here. Thanks for letting me tag along.
I’ve read quite a few postings on how ‘delicate’ auto’s are. I’ve only experienced my first grow with them and it went well. I’ve seen a couple postings about repairing branches that have been accidentally broken, using glue, tape, etc…but if it broke right off 🥲
Interesting! I just looked at one of your older postings…you put crystals in your growing pots?
It’s too small to salvage, like it was newly born. Bear with me as you triggered a thought:
Now that we are talking about it, I’m wondering if I need to make soil specifically for autos? I’m thinking maybe something with less silica, since silica is what gives plants it’s structure for the most part? I have treated my soil with BD preps, which include horsetail.
I do, as I feel the urge to do so. 
I’m sorry that I’m off topic. I will be sure to be more mindful. I appreciate your patience.
I worked at a non profit organization that had quite a bit to say about different crystals…I find it interesting that you added them
Kris, airy buds are sometimes a result of daytime / nighttime temperature differentials
Could probably caused by a wide variation between your daytime and nighttime temperature. If using lights indoor you can do a number of things to keep temperature under control. The simplest adjustment is to make sure your lights run at night when it is coolest and are off during the day
You have MORE than enough light with what you are using…
WW is a hybrid and part of her heritage is sativa. Sativa can usually have less dense buds than Indica so it could be a genetic thing. Also, you could have harvested too early…WW loves her 2/3 days of darkness before harvest during which she thickens up her buds…
Either way, I have had airy buds and as long as the high is good, who cares. Important - airy means they can dry quicker so make sure you have your curing jars with bovida 62% packs while curing.
UVA/UVB - these lights are either incorporated into your growing lights or you add them on. They should only be on 2 hrs a day…during mid to late flower time. They help increase terpine and thc production. That does not necessarily mean thicker buds, just better tasting and more effective
I use simple 25w reptile UVA/UVB. If you are satisfied with the effects of your weed, not necessary
Thank you Mike! It’s great to have knowledge on what could be contributing factors :). I’m also glad you mentioned the reptile light because I have been doing some reading about those and it seems like a simple way to add more of the correct spectrum.
I’m curious, do you have a clue what this is? I noticed it on my Strawberry Cough today. I only see it in one place? It’s on a tiny bud on a stem.
A little to early to tell. Could be the beginning of fox-tailing or the emergence of a nanner
Great pic by the way…frosty trikes…heavy for such early pistils. Going to be a great harvest
The lights you have give you FULL SPECTRUM…It is enough to take plants from beginning to end, nothing else required. Anything additional just takes you into an upper echelon grower…striving for perfection.
Remember, the higher the goal, the greater the disappointment.
Reminds me of the story of the Navajoes blanket weavers. In order to not get LOST in their work, they MUST sew in a mistake…
I think I just learned about this. Do you think incomplete fertilization? I’m looking for a term, and I’m trying to read as fast as I can to find it
300 watts in a 4×4. SF2000 is 200w at the wall, MH1000 is 100w. That’s 18.75 w per sq ft. Watts is the absolute worst and leat accurate way to determine light. But even so that’s your issue.
Move your lights closer to the plants to increase intensity.
As I stated watts is the least accurate way of measuring light. But it’s a number we all have access to and the manufacturers use it. Having said that, 15-20w per sq ft is the minimum needed.
Use your smart phone to measure the LUX your light produce. There are several apps. Using that number, plus your spectrum and the wattage at the wall you can do math and get a reasonable PAR number to see what your lights are really putting out.
