Soil has an AMAZING ability to adjust the ph all by itself. That doesn’t mean you can go in and feed with a ph on the scale that would injure or stress the plant. Are you objectionable to bottled water? Even a cheap gallon of distilled or filtered water is less than a buck. I buy 5 gal bottles and get RO water for .29 a gallon…my TDS (which is just as or even more important than Ph) is less than 1…My ph is around 6.2…When you start adding LIQUID nutrients or additives or amendments, you will change the ph and TDS. Top dressing is a good way to lessen your need to adjust but unless you are using living soil, and you are not, there are necessities you should be adding that affect all of this.
Molasses - will lower ph of soil over time…but is highly recommended at 1 teaspoon per gal of water. Kelp will also assist in CREATING THAT SUBSTRATE that has the micro-biological ability to make you plant grow better. Cal/Mag will be a requirement becasue your soil has NO CALCIUM…The calcium, mag and sul are NEEDED!
Ph up/down, when used properly, will not DESTROY your substrate…just do not use both. If you overdo it, going up or down, do not adjust the other way. Take time, use it drop by drop, aerate, test, aerate and test again…Aeration alone will change the ph of H20…
TDS - the solids in tap water register as salts and count towards nutrition. When you mix in your additives, the TDS values will change as will the ph levels
If your water is 8, you want to lower it to at least 6.2-6.5…Molasses will lower it even more. Kelp will help the roots and add the beneficial bacteria to the substrate, as will the molasses and Cal/Mag. If you do not have cal/mag, either get it or look at @Kronic home made formula…I make my own using eggshells and epson salts…
