Soil(EC, and PH) flower

Curious what people give there plants for ec when feeding and also the ph during the flower stage.

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I keep the ph of all of my feedings between 6 and 6.5. I only use distilled water/ro/purified water and distilled white vinegar (ph down) or lime (ph up) to adjust ph.

As I stated on your other post I also try to keep my ec between 1.5 and 2.

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I appreciate the help man, I dont wanna be stressing out about not giving them enough juice. I’m gonna feed a few hours after the lights come on tmr, I’ll get the ph to 6.4 and an ec of maybe 1.6 or a little more. Do you think feeding back to back would be bad? Or split it up with a day of water in between. I forgot to put any perlite in so not much runoff. Not sure if there is a salt buildup happening.

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Yeah you can stagger your feedings. Just left a comment on your other post about weekly feedings instead of biweekly.

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Didn’t know where to post it .has anyone ever tried mylar film it is a reflector and 98 percent reflection and if you have decent lights the mylar will work with them. And get all the lights you need .my plants everywhere a bud can grow there’s a bud all the lower plants have buds everwhere usely they don’t make much but they will now im at 4weeks plenty of time

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Maybe it would not be a bad idea for someone / group of us / to post feed schedules, calendar, spread sheet with alternative options - organic, soil, soil & additive, hydro in neutral substrate…There are enough of us here that we should be able to build a killer feed schedule for all types. I have seen more talent here on this one site than every together site I have perused. And I have been doing this since the late 60’s

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I had a major room - mylard floor, walls, ceiling, a dozen Cal lightwork solar storm 800w, co2,. Side lights (t5 /t8 vertically) I was getting bocu returns but the cost (cooling, air movement, co2, water system, nutes, substrate (used rockwool and coca here and there) and the time needed to tend was too much. It was like a giant tanning room :stuck_out_tongue:. The mylar was the bomb at reflecting that light. I was cropping buds from bottom to top

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Yes it’s great my cost not too bad make my own soil and water

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Hi! I’m new to growing and from what I’ve read, the diamond patterned Mylar is better then the plain shiny Mylar because it does not have ‘hot’ areas. I purchased a 32’ roll and I’m making my own ‘tent’ with it.

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Welcome to the forum I’ve never used it before but I check it out thanks

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Kris, you are right. Light refraction from the angles gives hot spots but it is moot depending on the grow area / size of tent. Depending on the light, the sweet spot and the coverage area, it can be negligible. I have built many HomeGrown tents using cardboard boxes in the past. We would get the Wardrobe boxes and use the diamond pattern as it has added thermal protection (air barrier), whereas the mylar sheet is just a thin sheet and the internal / external temps can cause condensation. We used these mostly to germinate so we could keep the grow room strictly for veg / flower. We could get by with cheap simple lights in the germinate stage (get us to 2/3/4 nodes (make sure you have enough blue light to keep them compact at the start). When they were ready for training and vegging, they were transplanted and went under the bigboy lights. This way we maximized investment by getting lights on the high end for production. We did not want to waste all that precious light capability on newbies.

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I have alot air moving and I don’t have any hot spots knock on wood no problems

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The way i try to make my grow room as much outside as i possible can and they love it and they are very happy

I would be incredibly happy to grow anything close to those!

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Thank you for the compliment

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