Thanks @MDBuds 
. Adjusted LST ties & removed some lower leaves. Didn’t want to stress her too much. Thing I’d prune more in a couple days.
I just keep on nutrient feed schedule, twice week & plain water with molasses the other waterings. Does that seem right??
Good to hear. Thanks.
@Darkheart420 pretty sure i had the light turned down to low. While rotating them i noticed roots coming out of the holes in the bottom of the pots. So i am figuring they were just concentrating below ground and will green up when top growth starts. Never did cannabis clones before. Always did trees and grapes before. Quite a bit of difference.
Your clones look good. I’ve seen some barely hanging on to life all of a sudden explode into growth.
I just planted a clone from perlite into Pro Mix. She went a bit pale while establishing her roots. She will come around with a bit of love and care. So will yours.
@Adcrag
I went back and look at your postings. It looks like your WW is around three weeks since pistils.
She has a long way to go. I don’t even see pistol senescence (wilting,browning) starting yet.
The lighter your plant is right now the harder it is for her to turn light into sugars. She need chlorophyll to do this. You are going to start losing leaves soon.
What nutrient line are you using? Are you giving half strength nutes or full strength?
How are your soil temps? It looks like you are growing in a basement but I’m not positive.
She looks stressed to me and stressed plants don’t put on weight like they should.
White Widow auto is a heavy feeder just like the photoperiod plant. This may be as simple as adding an extra feeding or slightly upping your nutes.
Hello, first thanks. I’m growing in basement. Tent temps 71-75°/ 57% RH, pH 6.2 - 7.7. My plants are not sitting directly on floor (1.5 drain riser. Feeding with full strength Botanicare
Twice wk & water & molasses as needed.
Someone mentioned about temp of water , if too cold. Thoughts.
11/15 pictures
What to do next??
I want to look into the nutes you are using. Botanicare has three different lines for nutes.
Kind, Pure Blend Pro and CNS17. Which are you using?
Cold stress can certainly bring on colors like your plant is displaying. You mentioned that the temps are between 71-75°. Is that during lights on?
Do you have an instant read thermometer? A digital meat thermometer would work. I would take the temp of the water. If you normally set it out or take it straight from tap,do the same steps you normally would. I would also check the soil temp through the bottom drain holes. This is something that you would do right at lights on, before the lights heat up the tent.
Your pH may also be playing a part in this. That is a large pH range. If you must pH I would keep it between 6.2-6.5ish. This pH range will give your plant the best possible access to it’s nutrients. Anything above 7 is just too high of a pH.
You may need a slight tweak in the pH department and are possibly having a small temp issue.
I’ll check in later. I have a bit of a busy day ahead of me.
Have a great day.
So I’m use Pure Blend Pro in the ripening amounts.
I’ll have to check temp after lights out. My RH 51% is that to low?? Also don’t have ppm meter to check runoff. Getting one today!!
My tap water is basement temp. It has gotten cooler here. I also let my water sit 48 hrs before using. I check pH after mixing today 6.4.
Today’s pic
Thanks @Darkheart420, I hope I’ve done permanent damage to my girl.
Have a great day 
In soil you don’t need to worry about ppm or pH in the runoff. That is a rabbit hole you don’t want to go down.
Soil picks up minerals as it percolates through soil so it will only give a skewed reading. A slurry test is how you would check pH in a soil substrate. For this same reason ppm will not give you a proper reading either. A ppm meter for you situation would be to check nutrient strength.
Checking the run off ppm and pH is for passive (hand watered) hydro like Coco and Hempy buckets.
You rh is really good. I would worry a little if it gets about 60% but that can be addressed by keeping good circulation throughout the tent.
So work on getting those temps and we can see a better picture of what’s going on.
We can’t fix the leaves that are dying and damaged but we can keep the plant from getting worse and maybe green up some of her ramaining ones so she can process those sugars and build those buds.
I agree - the yellowing is mostly the lower fan laves which personally I trim off anyway on my grows. The tops look beautiful and the flowers appear to be taking the majority of the nutrients. The TOPS -They are plump and decent green, nice calyx, clean and only the slightest amount of browning. That means she is GRWOING GOOD. You have room to allow those tops to blossom more and increase your yield and thc /trichome production.
@Mrb53004 & @Darkheart420 I really appreciate ya.
Definitely gonna check temp after lights out.
Will keep ya posted.
I grew My first plant this year, since I was a kid, and it turned out GREAT!, I didn’t get amber until the days got shorter in the middle of Oct. it was ready. And it was some of the best I’ve had since I was a kid. Nobody hardly grew good weed in the Late 70’s, except for a little farm outside of Nashville.
Just a question @Mrb53004. I have heard it said so many times that it must be true to trim those yellow fan leaves. My question is if they are turning yellow becuse upper leaves are robbing them why would you trim them before they fall off? I am sure there is a really good reason other than they are using energy better spent elsewere. Just so much about growing cannabis i dont understand.
Stress is stress and it is accumulative. Cutting results in more stress than natural defoliation. Sometimes we trim because:
we are impatient - and maybe we know our plants. Just like people,we know what we can get away with
Humidity - More leaves, more transpiration, more humidity in the air
Light - I want that light getting to flowers that are being blocked from getting as much light as they can
Air - less leaves means better air circulation. We know if our environments are crowded and need more air space, CO2 exposure,etc
Types of plants - Pheno are much more forgiving to trims than auto is. Some people do not touch auto’s. With Auto, you have a limited amount of time and do mot want anything interfering with flower production as they plant ages by time, not light exposure
And sometimes just a matter of opinion. I started growing in the late 60,early 70’s. I am not a fan of the 2/3 nutrient schedule (Micro, Veg,Bloom). Sometimes it just gets to difficult, or easy. I prefer Organics and use pretty much 20-10-20 for the entire growth cycle. I use Organic and feed all the time with my TEA mixture (Molasses, organic debris, Kelp) and I make a spray of Calcium / mag that I mist with on occasion. If it ain’t broke, I do not fix it. Many growers get very caught up in special nutrients for particular stages of growth. It works for them but requires much more time and effort.
But why fed them something there not using.
I change up my nutes on my tomatoes this year. Cut the nitrogen off earlier and I was getting worried come end of summer.
But at end of fall I had so many tomatoes and bigger than ever.
Hit the teas hard at first. And man is that good stuff. But change can be good.
I agree. I use tea as the foundation of my feeding / watering. Always at the base of my tea is KELP. I use organic kelp powder in my mister and my tea base. I use liquid kelp in my feed. My tea is aerated and contains leaves (from my trees), certain kitchen scraps, sometimes some calcium, activated and natural charcoal from my burning of wood trim from my yard, sometimes ash. Then I will add nutes to it for a feeding (tds / ec levels) . When I reach veg stage, I start to throttle back nitrogen and phosphorous takes the lead and finally we move to the potassium for flowering. My tomatoes let me know if I need calcium (blossom end rot), my squash let me know I am on the right track for flowering (many blooms) and my beans add N to the soil for my next years mulch.
Teas are a good fertilizer. I like worm casting in mine lots of it. Kelp too
Mulch and calcium. Few other micro nutes and shes good.
