Loose buds low potency

Continuing the discussion from Why did my WW auto produce seeds? Are they viable?:

Thank you so much! This was my first grow. I read a lot and watched Kyle’s videos. Problem is the stuff smells great, looks pretty good but the buds are loose and the product has very little potency. Any advice on round 2 much appreciated. TY

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Maybe try a photo over an auto next time.
WW is a sativa dom. You may want to try an Indica dominant strain next time? Tighter, denser buds compared to the lighter buds of a sativa.
The photos take longer than autos, but you can get higher yields and potentially higher potency
Just my random thoughts

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I have found that with lower light you get loose buds get a higher Watt light the brighter the light the tighter the buds in my case GLHF

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Maybe didn’t get enough oxygen to the plants I’ve had it to happen to me just a thought

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Light is the culprit for the loose buds. Sativa strains are already lighter than indica, but with low light it will make it noticeable.

As for potency, what did the trichomes look like When you harvested and what drying and curing method did you use?

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Potassium deficiency and low glucose levels can cause light airy and low potency buds too even if you have good lighting. Make sure when you hit your flowering stage you’re using some pk and molasses or other glucose booster so they can develop some nice buds.

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@MDBuds Would you happen to know the tds / ec for straight p & k (I use langbenite 22 & phosphorous 65)
for nitrogen, I go to 500-1250-900tds
I manipulate the P & K depending on where I am at in flowering (beginning / end)
I start reducing tds to 1000 or less (TTL) as I am in the homestretch
I always have my sugars in my mix, tsp pr gl
My soil is mulched and produced with gypsum and dolomite lime and Magnesium
I foliar spray with calcium 220ppm and ma 120ppm during life cycle
My soil mix is
1 part peat, 1 part mulch, 1/2 part vermiculite, 1/4 to 1/2 part perlite, my magnesium and calciums
for seedlings - straight peat and lately peat / perlite 50/50

@Mrb53004 for flowering you want your feeding ec not to exceed 1.5 and 2.

Thanks. Do you know how much P and K. I am trying to move from my hydro days to soil days. Outside was much easier but tents and containers are where I am trying to adjust. I do not like any of the 3 stage market products. I made my own with hydro and do not know what the P level or K levels should be to integrate into the mix. I do use FULL TILT at then end

I use organic nutrients like earth juice and vegamatrix.

The npk for the earth juice Verde fire bloom i use is 0-9-3 and the boost i use from vegamatrix is 1-0-1.

so do you know what 9 p would equate to on TDS scale?

The NPK ratios are just the ratio of those elements inside 1 lb of fertilizer.

But, if you use the NPK ratio of said fertilizer and divide 100 by P you can get the amount of fertilizer needed to add one lb of P to the soil.

It doesn’t really equate to TDS as TDS is total dissolved solids in water.

But, as far as TDS goes with feeding you don’t want your TDS to exceed 750-1k during flower and you want to taper it back down to between 500-750 near the end of flower before you stop feeding.

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@Mrb53004 I guess if you want to use a lot of math you can kind of convert it though. One lb of water is 15.34 ounces.

So if you want your water to have an P of 9 you would add 1.44 ounces of P to 15.34 ounces of water.

A gallon is 8.33 lbs. So if mixing a gallon you would add 11.7 ounces of P to get a gallon of water with 0-9-0 npk. The TDS will be higher than a feeding though as nutrients are diluted before feeding.

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@MDBuds - Thanks, that is the formula I was looking for. Gump, who told you to be so good at math!

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