I have my grow room in old water sistren its perfect and like you said @CurrDogg420 its easy keeping temperature in check by moving it different ways
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Thanks @CurrDogg420
That is some very useful info. I am going to place a piece of plywood over a pallet and set my tent there.
As I said before, I want to be 99% before I even throw these seeds in a glass of water. I am still contending with the outdoor garden.
BTW, check this out. I have a game video camera watching the garden. I was concerned about deer getting into both our gardens, veggie and weed.
My visitor last night
I’ll post this but I still have some questions.
Since I will be growing Regulars, I will really need to pay attention to “trigger” points.
I already have a clipboard hanging outside the tent. Based on what you said, I will germinate 8 seeds.
I have a small LED grow light I have used to nurse the seedlings until ready to move outside. I’ll do the same until I put them in the tent.
I expect to find 3 to 4 males, statistically speaking.
Questions:
Seedlings light time (my definition of seedlings is stem and two little leaves) - How much light?
When to switch to 18-6 full intense?
When to start searching for males?
Okay, say I find a male early on. Has pollen sacs. So, let us say I find 2 males and 6 females. My intention is to only take 4 girls to harvest. I’m in a VIVOSUN 48” x 48” x 80” Hydroponic Mylar Grow Tent and I’ve ordered 5 1 gal bags.
Is it practical to take a male and female and put them in the 5 bag and moved them out of the grow tent and let them "get it on’? Will I be able to use her to harvest a seed cache? Can I put her back in the tent once she is pollenated (maybe after rinsing off any excess pollen)?
Or the the idea of seed collection a fools errand?
Can I find a Light/growth stage/stage for regulars? Since my lighting will be controlling the stage transitions, is the decision of when to switch arbitrary?
I know I am asking a lot of questions and I have been researching on my own. It is all I watch at night on YouTube and there is a lot!! Actually, it is overwhelming.
I am just trying to load my hand with the best cards before I play.
If you really want to know “how much” light, you’ll need a meter. (You’re measuring the PAR - “photosynthetically active radiation” - the quantity of plant available photons) Apogee is the top of the line brand but pricey. You can find cheaper Chinese knockoffs on Amazon for less than 1/2 the price. Those type give a reading in “micro moles” (per meter per second squared). You can also find even cheaper ones that measure lumens, and convert from there.
Recommended ranges are:
300-500 umol seedlings
500-700 umol veg
700-1000 umol flower (at ambient CO2)
You can go higher than 1000 but it’s recommended to supplement CO2 and run the plants at a higher temp. Probably not beginner stuff.
Those figures being said, the plant can also tell you what it will take. Another way to figure out how much light to use is to just keep ramping it up until she cries uncle, then back off a touch.
For the veg photoperiod, you can be anywhere from 16-8 to 24-0. Personally I like to give them a dark period to rest. Under 14 is getting into flowering range - the recommended duration there is 12-12.
The dilemma about final plant count is why I recommended training them a bit. Maybe you end up with 3, or maybe 7, you just don’t know.
I don’t have any experience with it, but I’ve heard they can be sexed early by switching to 12-12 for a few days once they’ve reached maturity. I’d look in to that if I was running regular seeds.
If you can isolate your seed run from your sinsimilla run, go for it. I wouldn’t want those plants anywhere near it at any time though. One male can pollinate like 7 acres.
Moth balls will keep deer away
I saw a You Tube where they mention the hand method but never explain it. I assumed you held your hand under the light for a certain distance until you felt a sensation. It was that Apogee Professor from Utah.
But it was never described. Are you familiar with the Hand method?
I’m sorry but what is “training them”? I assumed it meant to tie them back for more light exposure. I really need to get these terms down.
In that video I think he was actually saying that using your hand won’t work, because the human eye is not sensitive in those ranges. We’re adapted to much lower levels of light than plants need for efficient photosynthesis.
The meter is absolutely not necessary, but if you don’t have one you’re just guessing- and probably to the low side.
By “training”, yeah I meant the stuff like topping and tying branches. The stuff you do to manipulate the shape of the plant. It’s also all optional, but what I was trying to get at is, if you got the hang of that, it’s just a little more shaping if you ended up one plant short or something.
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Hi guys,
I am really flashed by the specs and the pictures of the Bruce Banner strain. And I think, that will be my choice for the next run.
But I have heard recently a lot about fake seeds sold as original.
So my question is: are your seeds original (seeds from a original clone) or are they “just” a rebuild where you have tried to come really close to the original?
Thanks in advance,
Karl Arsch
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Yes I’ve got alot of seeds here at homegrown and no issues on strains @KarlArsch3000 all good seed’s
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Im about to harvest some beautiful Bruce Almighty Fem that I got from HGCC… No complaints here.
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I have no doubt that the seeds are very good. But that doesn’t mean that they have very much in common with the original Bruce Banner from Dark horse genetics.
Many of the varieties sold here or many other places are not supposed to be available in seed form, at all. OG Kush, Sour Diesel, and many others were originally “clone only”.
That doesn’t mean they’re not good, or that it’s not even possible to produce seeds that are just as good as the original clones. That’s where the breeder comes in, and where the real work begins.
It’s my understanding that for several of the “clone only” varieties, these are produced by Blimburn Seed Co. for HGCC. The rest are produced in-house. A better forum for your question would be to send them an email, the company won’t respond in this thread.
If you like the exclusivity, or having the “genuine original” is a primary concern for you, in many cases you can source the seeds from the original breeders. Those guys work hard and need your support too. But often these are smaller releases which sell out quickly and you can expect to pay a steep premium.
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I have 3 Bruce banners female they are between one and a half and one month they’re all starting to look a little light green what’s going on
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I have a Bruce Banner Fast Version growing right now. The seed was small and lacking in color and markings, but it went from germ to pop up in 5 days. The numbers are really impressive, 30 THC and 1.5 CBD. The taste has to be awful, right? Only time will tell, bwahaha!
I’ve been loving my Bruce Almighty(harvested in December)… Bout to start grow2, only a couple this time. I did stress 1 plant and had 2 colas get a few nanners and 4 seeds, but them buds were some of the tastiest of all. I know mine liked sulfer and blackstrap molasses water. Gave em some nanner tea a couple times too.
I’m new to this, what is “nanner tea”?
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Redneck for banana tea…
. Steep some banana peels and after a few days use it to water with.
Banner came from delta9, before Jason changed name to dark horse