Help near end of flower

Okay so I can’t front this is my first sucessful indoor run solo. I’m nearing the end. I messed up by doing 30 minute increments of time getting darker for two weeks or longer. I will never do that again as it made each plant enter into flower at different times.

Currently I am having issues with yellowing and I think I haven’t been watering as much as I should be? I need some suggestions

I believed they were going to be done by now realizing the way I flipped was the worst method. I’m also learning what the flowers do upon watering and stuff.

I had two marshydro fc6500 lights running but my ac couldn’t keep temp down so I am using one now. I cut 2 plants early I believed we’re done then everything started getting huge huge. Different strains.

I will add I had a blinking light which created a small amount of seeds per plant. I think this may be taking lots of energy causing earlier yellowing.

I water every other day filling a 5 gallon for 8 plants in a 7gal plant bucket. I cut two early started using about 2.5-3 gallons for 6 plants so about half a gallon each. I was thinking to water less more often.

Above is the Swi party punch (Master OG x Purple Punch)

Below is big bud x gsc I just wonder about the yellow color going and some burnt leaves …

This plant (Georgia Pie) I raised closer to the light I think it was too far away it is the shortest has big too colas but the bottom nugs seem they stay the same size and observe lots of growth after watering and raising nearer to light

This sundae driver has beautiful colors but the nugs look like they need to swell up way more to me… you can see the light green spotting with green pistils growing still … any tips? … cheers

Now last but not least is suppose to be another big bud x gsc seed but it seems way more sativa … the nugs are green, all the leaves for about a month been yellow, a few days ago they were looking like they were turning pink from the yellow, let me know any tips or suggestions thank you!

Any tips or suggestions appreciated… I watered yesterday after 3 days but I didn’t water slow and had to get on a skate film session (ever had Brazilians mad at you for being late it’s not fun) haha and I watered each with an igloo travel cup worth of molasses and bloom organic formula mixed as both can go to end (and the incredible bulk I’m using suggests increasing each watering till very end no flush needed, I don’t think I did the process of that right I used too soon I think as it says to use first week of water during flower then the last 3 weeks and increase use each serving) so I re watered today and while I was taking these I noticed many of the plants looking better.

@Sk8nGrow definitely water less more often in a soil grow. Maximum 2.5 liters per plant at a time in 7 gallon pots.

Since you’re using fabric pots bottom watering would work much better too. Just get some plant saucers and fill the saucers letting the pot wick it up.

It’s easier and better for the plants too. Only top water on feeding/amendment days just to water in the feedings.


Oh shit that’s changing my whole perspective, I don’t think I’d be able to do correctly I’m sonaccustom to top watering… but your saying every other water basically do top feed with nutrients … then next feed pure h2O in saucers …. Then top feed again after that? …

I like the idea as if you give the nutrients they eat them, then you give them water to increase the uptake from the bottom essentially feeding them the nutrients again better …. At least in my mind …

I appreciate the 2.5 liter suggestion for the 7, I also keep them mounted on top of painters racks !! So they have airflow underneath! So the saucer idea totally reverses that idea, is that solely for flower time or do you do the saucers thru veg as well?

I watered them heavier today than I have in the past and I watched some yellow fan leaves turn half green and tips are yellow now. I probably did about 2.5 liters I don’t know the exact size of this igloo cup I use but I believe it’s a liter and I gave them 3 servings of it today vs 1.

I just want to be able to perfect my feeding, I’ve learned a lot these last two years, every other day or every 3rd day seems to be great for me. I really need to start perfecting my PPM I never use the gauge. Today I read the bucket of cleaned up runoff was around 3200 … it did get soaked in a rag then squeezed out that’s used multiple timesZ but I need to learn the numbers to use for feeding and what to look for in run off during bot veg and flower.

Also i start my ph at 5.5 seedling then raise 5.7 for early veg . 5.8-5.9 then 6 for beginning flower, and raise to 6.4 nearing the end. Is there any use in this cycle? Or sticking to one number all the way better? I learned this routine from hearing you start around 5.5-5.6 for seedlings and then for end of flower6.5 you go up so it can take in less nutrients for flushing

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@Sk8nGrow I try to bottom water through the whole grow. The idea behind it is to mimic nature as much as possible indoor in an organic grow. It helps preserve microbes and you don’t have runoff waste to deal with.

So, no it isn’t just for flower. It’s for the whole grow. If organic perfecting feeding directly correlates with watering practices and developing and maintaing healthy microbial life which bottom watering helps you accomplish.

As far as your pH cycle that’s a general practice many have success with but I personally aim for 6.5 pH the whole grow and just let the soil pH fluctuate naturally between 6.0-7.0. If you have healthy microbial life your plant can actually communicate with the soil and tell the microbes what they need through chemical signals.


Some video screen shots of the sundae driver how it came out they were all cut before the week began, but I knocked a cola off accidentally early and man am I blown away at the smell and flavor and bold color of it!! Pray I get some good energy towards a new spot with open doors and or my money owed to me to get it from my weed job that quit paying us. I have 5 beasts in veg that I neeed to finish … trained much better and already larger for flip-age image|441x500

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I’ve got much to learn about microbes and I need to brew some humid acids or something I haven’t yet tried them only used recharge so far and mykos … they have a nice root structure …. I worry about over watering with the sauce pans a little bit …. Next run I’m able to do I want to try coco and do better with my microbes :microbe:

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@Sk8nGrow coco is a good substrate but I personally like to do what’s called the “coot’s mix” colloquially using coco in place of peat with my own blend of home compost and worm castings. 1/3 base (coco, peat, etc…) 1/3 compost (veggie compost, worm castings, bokashi, manure compost etc…) and 1/3 aeration with a mix of mineral amendments. I personally use gypsum, rock phosphate, basalt, langbeinite, food grade de for silica and structure, and some oyster shell flower.

I recycle it too so every year it gets a better and better structure and it’s teaming with microbial life now. I think it’s my third run now since I last mixed up a batch of soil instead of either top dressing or reamending.

As long as you follow the 5-10% watering “rule” though you’ll be fine with the saucers. Just start with 5% first and if it isn’t moist enough add 5% more the next day.


@Sk8nGrow as far as microbes I make my own. I make my own lacto bacillus, acetobacter, thiobacillus, etc… because they’re easy to make at home and they’re great for solubilizing mineral PK and nitrogen as well as a lot of the micros.

I even use some cyanobacterium (specifically algae) to improve soil aggregation. In lamens terms, I use algae to fix my soil tilth and structure.