Yep. I have access to amino acid products, kelp extracts and micro combinations. One of my favs is a product that has a decent amount of Fe, Mn, Mg, with Humic and fulvic acids, kelp extract, and then small amounts of boron, molybdenum, zinc, I’ve run 2 Oz per gal of this once per month. Rates for sports fields for example are 5 Oz per thou sqft.
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Yep. I’ve been doing this for 20 years in a sports field area. I can do the. Bermuda grass or zoysia. Disease, weed control, fertilizer. I’m your man. But the things I have are commercial quality. Refined concentrates. I don’t like burning things.
I use a promix that is mostly vermiculite and moss with mychorhyzae added. With a 2 gal pot I mix 2 tbls blood meal, bone meal. SOP. Also about the same or less gypsum and a 3-3-3 organic fert with mychorhyzae. Seems to do ok. Real easy to over water. Got to let it dry down. Don’t need near as much as one might think.
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Indoors. I had a multi year run back in the 90’s. All chem though. Old school stuff. Halide and HPS. Took a 20 year hiatus. Did 5 crops last year. Gonna slow some this.
The new tech is incredible. And the knowledge I’ve picked up in the agronomy field is serving me well. Hope to be able to share. I have access to Macrosorb, Earthworks, Douglas Plant Health and many other products. Just have to be real careful on the conversions. OMRI certified is my goal. So far it has been great.
Thanks for the exchange. Good info.
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Lots to learn from you too! Thanks Bubba! Happy Blazing!!
@BlackSheep it’s the pH fluctuations caused by nutrient levels and bacteria levels that generally cause burning in organic growing.
It’s a myth that you can’t get nutrient burn with organics too because the pH levels affect nutrient and water uptake.
For instance in organic soil if you let pH get too low you will get nitrogen toxicity and nutrient burn as well as phosphorus/potassium/calmag deficiencies from lockout. Low pH in organic soil is generally caused by excessive nitrogen as well.