Flowering indoor during summer

Quick question. I just started my grow indoors. It’s like week 2 of veg. I’m veg for March and April and flowering May and June. Harvest will be sometime in June or July. I have a small 5000 BTU air conditioner. I’m not sure if it will keep the temperatures low enough during flower and drying Because my last grow I started it in June 2021 Which was in the vegetative state at the time. I know they can Withstand higher temp during veg compared to flower. My temperatures were at about 82 with the AC set set to 62゚. My question is what is the highest tolerable temperature That the plants could Withstand during flowering and drying without Affecting potency and quality?

Great question watching with mega interest. I’ll be in the same box – same timing.
I sort of feel like RH is far more important as we go along and getting it to 40% or so in flower.

@Garden420 as long as you don’t go over 85-90f and keep humidity in range for your temperature you’ll be fine flowering in summer. The hardest part will be preserving terpenes during dry and cure, but it will be much easier to keep temperature and humidity in range without dealing with the heat from the lights and drivers/ballasts.


If you’re growing in a room, rather than a tent within a room, the challenge is sufficient AC and/or dehumidifier to get the rh down so they don’t swamp and rot on you.

If growing in a tent, within a poorly climate controlled room, you can fairly easily create ducted AC. I have a situation here where my hundred year old, second floor apartment is impossible to keep fully controlled in summer. What I did was create a duct, literally taped a cereal box to one side of the window AC output, and from there used four inch duct to the inlet air of the tent. Air flow and temp are controlled by controlling air flow out of the tent with the filter fan. A small dehumidifier in the tent helped pull excess moisture. It wasn’t perfect, but with led lights, heat from the light isn’t too bad, so I can get hold of it. Also located the big fan on top of the tent, so the motor heat is outside.juggling moisture and. Heat, use lots of hygrometer/thermometers, I have three, to monitor different ares, like at soil level versus at canopy level. Use the vapor pressure chart and keep it happy.


I’m coming up on completing my first year of indoor; cycle 4 wrapping up now. I had a hell of a time this past summer (in the mid west) with temperature. I have a portable A/C that I was trying to vent through the chimney (grow is in basement). Long story short, my light bill more than doubled. After consulting with my A/C guy he said I was also exhausting too much conditioned air up the chimney. In hindsight I might try a window unit, but my windows there are very small, so not practical. After the summer I went through I said F that; will not attempt in the summer again. So, I’m in stockpile mode. :slight_smile:
Don’t forget to use a VPD chart, they are helpful because heat and humidity work together; there are “ranges” for various stages of growth and can give you some breating room.
Something similar to this: https://globalgarden.co/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/big-vapor-pressure-deficit-chart.png


D Hudson, That last bit is key. Weed grows in Afghanistan desert, cold at night, etc, and in the equatorial tropics where everything sweats if you look crossways at it, keep the vapor pressure in the happy zone, provide sufficient good quality light, and almost anything else doesn’t matter,


Hi my name is angie and I’m still very much a newbie here. Could I apply similar with hydroponics DWC Bubble Buckets?

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@daletta for tent temperature yes but you would need a chiller for your reservoir if you use a recirculating system. If you don’t have a recirculating system you would need to find a way to keep your buckets cool to keep the solution temperature in range. Too hot they feed way too fast and too cool they don’t feed enough.

You need to keep your water/feed temperature between 65 and 80f.

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@daletta for hydro buckets with no res I’d suggest looking into a brew chiller system. The ones made for brewing beer. They’ll work great for bucket hydro and they have lots of options for set ups and they’re generally cheaper than setting up a recirculating system with a chiller.

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Water temps always run between 65F - 70-75F. I have a 6 week old WWA that is already beginning to flower, a 2wk old WWA that’s in preflower and, a 4 wk old White Rhino feminized in preflower. All in bubble buckets with air stones and they’re running on a 20W air pump. This is my 2nd time (lost 3 out of 3 my1st time). Now that I have re-grouped - printed everything I could from THIS forum - purchased everything needed to begin PROPERLY & PREPARED!!! (I even read everything I printed :slightly_smiling_face:). This is a "MUST HAVE" medicine in our home :house_with_garden: .
I was wondering if you have pictures of pre-flower & flower that you could post here for me. I’ve looked at so many different pics that I’m somewhat confused now and I HAVE to be successful this time. Tumor against pituitary has shrunk almost in half over the course of 9 almost 10 months :pray:
I still have plenty of questions (always will) and I want to say thank you for the help you have given me in this forum. So, if I start driving you crazy with questions, please let me know :crazy_face:


Female preflower.

Male preflower.

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Female in full flower.

Male in full flower.

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@daletta easy way to tell is if you look at the nodes where the side branches meet the stalk you will see small balls at first between the stipules (the small blade of grass looking leaves that come out of each node). The male’s preflowers will keep that ball shape and grow a stem under them with no pistils. The female flowers will turn into a tear drop shape and the base will swell (the bract) and the tip will begin to curl back or separate before a pistil forms out of it. The bract is often called the calyx (which the calyx is actually a translucent layer that covers and protects the bracts and pistils. The bract and pistils are what we actually see.)


Nice pictures … I’ve never seen a male in preflower OR in flower. I have ! Autoflower and 1 Feminized, autoflower is 6 wks old and feminized is 5 wks old, how much longer does it take a feminized plant to reach harvest than an autoflower? White Widow is AF and White Rhino is Feminized

@daletta it all depends on genetics and environment but generally autoflowers flower for 6-8 weeks just like a “fast version” cultivar. The white rhino is an 8-10 week flower so if you put it under 12/12 at the same time as the auto began to flower it will finish right around the same time or within a few weeks after.

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You have your male separated – do you keep all your males, if/when you get them?

@GrnyGrows these photos are from my last breeding grow. Yes though, I do separate my males from my females into their own mini greenhouses until I decide which ones I want to keep as breeders. Then I cull the rest and keep them quarantined until I harvest pollen to pollinate. I think this year though I might just do free/open pollination.


Wow – I don’t know how you do it all. I’d love to watch a thread on working with male plants. It intrigues me. When you cull, what do you do with those plants?

@GrnyGrows I intended to do one last year with videos but time wouldn’t permit. Hopefully this year I can get to it.

When I cull the weaker or undesirable males I just pull them up by the roots and put them in my compost.


So they don’t have value for any kind of edible or something. I’m cool with compost. I always need stuff to put in my bin.