Feedback would be great/second timer

Have two different autos. The wedding cake looks very pale, lime green and short to me. The northern lights auto seems to be doing better. Trying to combat pm on the northern lights. Some small spots showed up. Only second time doing this so any feedback would be helpful. Thanks!

Uploading: 20220927_224151.jpg…]()


If you could find images of the Wedding Cake strain in varying stages of growth, you could compare them. I’m thinking different strains will have different color patterns. I keep a notebook of information on each strain I grow and add my own notes to it.

And if you know what it could look like you have a goal.

Welcome to Homegrown :grinning:

Help us out with some more info. It looks like 5 gal fabric pots with potting mix.

What kind of soil?

What nutrients are you using?

What is your feed schedule?

What lights and light cycle?

1 Like

Get a spray bottle and mix a 50/50 solution of 3% hydrogen peroxide and water. Spray the entire plant, under the leaves too, at LIGHTS OUT! This will kill the mold.

When the is ready for harvest, do a wet trim and remove as many leaves as you can, then do a bud wash. One cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide in a 5 gallon bucket of water, gently swill the colas around for about 30 seconds, then rinse in a 5 gallon bucket of water only for another 30 seconds. Very gently remove excess water. I hold the bun in my hand, branch going up to my elbow, and spin in circles like a giddy school kid until I’m dizzy. Hang from the shower curtain rod with a fan gently blowing on it for a couple hours, then dry as you normally would.

I did this yesterday morning at lights out to mine in my tent, by the time the lights came on, plant and buds were dry and no sign of PM. And mine are about 2 weeks from chopping, so safe to do on flowers (and really, what else can you do? Can’t let it spread untreated!).

Welcome to the forum, @Buggy!


Natures care potting soil. Fox farms grow big and tiger bloom every other watering full strength ph 6.2. Added some calmag two waters ago. Spider farms sf1000 and a cannalights 1000w 18 on 6 off

Got some lost coast plant therapy that i am trying now. Didn’t know about the hydrogen peroxide spray!

What i see online is wayyyy different than mine. Kinda sad lol

My vegging changed dramatically after I got an ACInfinity 3x3. The leaves love it.

@spudgunner gave you good advice to deal with the pm you have. I use this (Agrowlyte) …kills it immediately and prevents it from coming back.

A couple plants in my current grow had lighter color, lime green leaves. I was recommended Pure Protein Dry 15-1-1 and it worked great. The plants definitely have a darker, healthier green color (one is close to chopping so not so green anymore…more yellow…haha). It accelerated growth as well.

Can be used with organic and synthetic grows during veg and flower…1 teaspoon/gal. Mix separately from your regular nutrients. I feed it every other week when not feeding regular nutrients. I won’t do a grow without it from now on.

I also feed this during flower only once or twice per month at 1 tablespoon/gal. Mix it with some warm water first before adding it to your water. Doesn’t matter what brand as long as it’s unsulphered.

This was one of my lime green girls before PPD 15-1-1.

6 days later.

1 month later.

And this is all of them today…12 weeks from seed…GG4 autos. Getting close on 3 of them.


I am at week 9 now. So much to learn

1 Like

Same here…first indoor grow. And hadn’t grown outdoors since the 70’s and 80’s.

There are so many products available today that it’s easy to get confused. I’m retired so I was able to sit down for a month or so and read up on it. Also joined a couple forums like this one to see what everybody was doing and what they were using.

I decided on organic grows for me so I won’t use any bottled nutrients going forward. I’ll use Earth Dust Base and Boost mixed into my soil. PPD 15-1-1 and Sea-90 trace minerals. That’s it besides a little molasses once a month or so.

I’ll be starting a new grow in the next 2 weeks with all the stuff mentioned above. I have the soil (Black Gold Natural & Organic) cooking with the Earth dust Base for almost 3 weeks now (added Sea-90 minerals to cook too). It contains the microbes and everything your plants need for the first month or so…just water.

About a week before flower do a top feed with Earth Dust Boost and water in. Repeat this in 30 days. With Earth Dust, all you do is water. It was designed as a all in one, stand alone product to get you from seed to harvest by just top feeding and watering. Check out The Green Sunshine Co. website.

I’ll use the other stuff I talked about too just trying to boost yield mostly…but it’s not necessary. Earth Dust will get you from start to finish by itself with flying colors. I’ve looked at a bunch of grows where that’s all they used and had great results and no deficiency issues. That’s another reason I’m going this route.


I thought I did so well with my first 2 plant grow. Then I realized I had mold, bud rot, and the plants never expanded. I lost so much crop potential by not encouraging the plant to expand while in flower.

This time around, I’m spending more time on the foliage that supports the flower. Then the flowers will have the support they need. I want to grow as naturally as possible.

I’ve grown flowers all my life. Learning to apply that knowledge to this flower is fun.

1 Like

Yea foliage is key. Dont let leaves get to dry. I read 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar to 2 cups of water can help spots. Can hurt the leaves a bit. Im trying it on clones in the bathroom seems to work. Mold dies at below 50 humidity and above 80. Got to get all the spotd when foliating. And keep checking. Need good air flow below as above. Circulation.

Here is an auto wedding cake at 37 days from burying the seed in soil…

From my experience with wedding cake, it will pack on the odor and color late in flower. To me, in early veg it looks like a sativa dominant… like a super lemon haze in veg but not quite as dark green on the older fan leaves. The flowers form like golf balls similar to SLH or green crack and then take on more of an indica, fatter calyx type bud that will fill in with lots of color.

At early flower you still want to see a lush, fullness of the green… still showing a shiny sheen on the fans. In a couple weeks as the trichomes stack in the plant should still be a healthy full green but the leaves will starting losing that shiny sheen. By the middle of stacking you may start to see some of the lower fan leaves fade very slowly. You want to see them gradually fade to yellow, purple, red, etc… That is generally the stages of a healthy plant. Prior to stacking, you really should not see deficiencies or a lack of healthy color as described. If the plants are in flower and stop stacking prematurely or appear Larfy, generally they need nutes or more light, are locked out, don’t like the environment, or commonly - are pollinated. In either case, I never like to see a sick plant in flower. For me, I generally chop anything in flower that is sickly looking as I would never consume it so it’s just wasting space, time, and resources.

1 Like

When defoliating, I try to bee as minimal as possible. I remove leaves in this order (and usually give my self a limit of how many leaves I can cut, like 4 or 5 so I need to choose wisely). There is debate on when defoliation should be done, but I may take a few leaves during veg on plants with heavy foliage and then I do final clean up after week 3 of flower and the plants have stretched and Ive decided what im not going to keep on the plant. I feel like defoliating prior to this can stunt the stretch and impact the overall structure of the plant. And Ive never had a problem with a plant moving right into stacking after a healthy clean up after week 3 flower.

  1. Damaged leaves. The take nutrients from the plant and are more susceptible to fungi.
  2. Inner leaves blocking air flow and light through the center of the plant.
  3. Anywhere too many leaves are touching creating sitting moisture on the leaves.
  4. Lower leaves not receiving light.

If it is autos you cannot compare them to anything photo wise in my experience because you will have 3 different autos from the same phenotype. With autos you never know what is going to be more dominant…the ruderalis or the main strain. The dad or the mom? Autos can go in so many different directions including smell and taste from the same strain.

I do heavy defoliation on my autos and see no difference

1 Like

This is my second White Widow. Loved the taste of the first and am working to make this harvest better.

LRT now. It needs adjusting several times a day. Lol