@kronic @MDBuds @Mrb53004 So, if the Top Soil is
at Three Inches on Organic Soil

@kronic @MDBuds @Mrb53004 So, if the Top Soil is
at Three Inches on Organic SoilThank you Darkheart, I use DT earth already and just got a jug of liquid silica from Bontanicare. I’ve read to back off it’s use after flower yet that is when I’m most likely to experience the hottest days. A grower reported of tougher to cut flower with greater “burn” than without. So how do YOU use silica? And what about Aloe Vera juice? Does it have any heat tolerance qualities to add?
Aloe Vera is good for stress/transplant shock. It has hormones to encourage root growth as well.
Vitamin C helps plants tolerate drought.
I use powdered ascorbic acid but you could also use powdered sodium ascorbate. I use it to remove chlorine/chloramine from my water.
It takes very little to dechlorinate a five gallon bucket. Vitamin C is available to your cannabis plant and is a necessary nutrient for life. Plants cannot grow in the full absence of Vitamin C.
Both Chlorine and Vitamin C are required for proper growth for humans and plants.
I use Cyco brand silica up until flower. I’m in a climate controlled space so I use it only until flower set.
Is there room to erect a teepee or something over them and grow items that could help protect from heat? In a together, but separate thing is what I’m thinking. Not sure if that makes sense to you, but it does to me. Ha!
Great info here thank you! Can you share how much Vitamin C you use and how to use it to remove chloramines. I age my tap water to blow off chlorine but I know chloramines are not off gassed well. Can you share the details of use?
I can fit a few under our biggest shade and have moved them into my garage when it got over 95 but there was damage from moving them that far and then they got near 0 light for several days waiting out the heat. I’m going to repaint the pots with a spray “limestone” and already do most of the rest. But, Darkheart, what is Kushman chiropractic? Does Kyle come out and massage my plants?, or me after a bout of trimming?
Heat from where / what. If you Teepee them, you can create an air current but the light has to come from somewhere and if above the teepee entrance, it would concentrate the heat
They amount is 1000mg per 40 gallons. Simple math will get that where you need to be. I use 5 gallon pails so I add 250 mg.
It’s powdered so all you do is add and stir, wait a half hour and you’re good to go.
Sodium ascorbate is a bit more pH stable than the ascorbic acid. Since you are using such small amounts you don’t really have to worry about it.
The ascorbic acid …being an acid can lower ph a bit.
@Darkheart420 I use l-ascorbic acid and citric acid too for chlorine treatment and the reduction of heavy metal contaminates.
Works pretty good to help stabilize feeding solutions too. Add it and aerate then you get a stable ph for at least 2 days until the acids begin to break down.
I also use it as a reducer and stabilizer in my home lab set up for colloidal silver.
I started using it for my aquariums. I don’t care for a lot of the dechlorinators on the market.
This was much cheaper, infinitely safer and my plants and fish can utilize it.
I’m about to start my first reversal with STS.
I should also have a male Grandaddy Purple to collect pollen from soon.
It was fun to run fems but I’m looking for more genetic diversity. I have some cool crosses that I’d like to get to this fall.
@Darkheart420 I’m running a few breeding projects right now myself and hope to be at f2 by fall.
I’m working on a few auto reversals right now and I have some Agent Orange and Hawaii X Purple Skunk pollen coming too.
I currently have 8 photo crosses planned and 5 auto crosses with 3 photo auto crosses. It should be a great time stabilizing the unique genetics. Lol
Have a nice time pheno hunting!
The auto/photo crosses should provide a bit of a challenge.
I’m pretty stoked to make my future stock. I hope to pass down my collection and my knowledge to any of my children who become interested.
My oldest is learning from me even though he isn’t growing yet. He is going back to school after taking a year off. He would like to be a plant pathologist. Hopefully he will be teaching me in the future.
He wants to move and work in the commercial cannabis sector.
If your tap water is ok, I would suggest either with a sprinkler or with you hose on mist. In the heat of the day spray your plants for about 30 seconds and they will love you for it. Outdoor plants in my experience love being sprayed during veg. When it’s really hot.
I know someone who started noticing that the same strains that he has grown for 2 decades were no longer ready by October 15 and were not finishing until early November. So he started paying attention to how many days there were that reached 100 or more. As many days that it hit those Temps. He started counting the days from October 15 to harvest. Well it turned out that almost the exact number of days there were over 100 is how many days after October 15 that his plants were finishing and it totally lined up. So on days over 100 he would run his sprinklers over his plants for 30 seconds during the hottest part of the day. Low and behold he started getting his plants to finish around October 15 just like they use too.
So yhe study shows that the plant shuts down when it gets to 100 or more and is kinda in limbo. So I started doing the same thing because here in Northern California it get plenty of days over 100. I got the same results my plants had never looked happier and healthier.
I used to think that getting your plants weat when the sun was out would burn them but I’ve learned that is totally false when it comes to Outdoor and is only an indoor practice.
I hope this helps as much as it helped me. I had to leave the bro science behind and listen to proven facts.
Many of us DESERT growers were aware of that. Last year I had over 3 weeks of PLUS 116°f couple with temps between 109-112° for a month before and after. The Vegas Desert is HARD to grow in…I mist my plants 3 times / more a day in that brutal heat. I also water the OUTSIDE of the containers to help keep the soil cool. I have placed insulation between my container walls and the soil on some of my containers (the smaller ones like 40L). I am adding extra silica this year. I put up a shade trellis…I lost about 90% of my crop last year…hope this is a better year
Awesome!! I hadn’t thought about wetting the outside of the fabric container down. Nice I’ll be doing that as well thank you
@Mrb53004 don’t forget painting your plastic or ceramic pots gloss white helps a lot too. It reflects sun and heat away from the root zone allowing for better insulation if using plastic or ceramic pots to insulate fabric pots.
Adding a layer of perlite or pumice in the plastic/ceramic under the fabric helps too. It catches run off and allows for evaporative cooling around the root zone and also wicks up water throughout the day cooling the root zone further.
Last year I painted SKY BLUE…This year I will be going white…The insulation I am using is
perlite, in between the cloth container and the soil - for CLOTH BAGS
foam sheets - I line the interior of the PLASTIC container with foam sheet liner in between the soil and the plastic
Brown paper - also used in some of the containers becasue I do NOT LIKE PLASTIC. Butcher paper, brown paper bag, rolled, crumpled…as the barrier between the plastic and the soil. As it gets wet, the soil moves so still trying to deal with that. Might not be an issue
I use TAN/BEIGE cloth containers for outdoors…black for tent
the tan reflects heat better. I use the perlite in there as the buffer. Peat layer at the bottom and work my way up with soil and perlite at the edge…takes some time to do it good
Did you guys with the extended 100+ temps leave plants in direct sun during that time? I moved mine to the garage and am trying to figure if the heat or the movement were responsible for the “taupe” color the flowers turned with the trichomes looking like tea rather than cream. Perhaps that symptom alone is the answer, now if I could pinpoint the cause. (They had to pass thru a walkway, high walls on both sides, occasionally brushing up against the wall as careful as I was. Was it the heat or the brushing or the few days out of the sun (not) that caused this tea color?
My garage is not conducive to my yard and no way could I move a dozen containers with the largest being 40L & 50L
I built a shade trellis to cover / shade the area for when the sun was overhead. In the desert, at 5pm, we are the hottest but the sun’s uv rays are the strongest at 1-2pm
The heat, just like the sun, can bleach everything…including the pistils…My healthy green sort of muted off…
Taupe - -Not sure if this would be heat / sun related or based upon strain…when we stress a plant, the lineage of the genus comes through and if there is any color in it, they will start to turn. Too much sun can also start the change of color as could going from a hot sunny environment to a cooler location with less light…the plant starts to think winter is coming and the terpene production changes based on the hormones of the specie